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No Brake Light - Urgent Help Pls
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21736
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Author:  Razor [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:58 pm ]
Post subject:  No Brake Light - Urgent Help Pls

Hi

I'm trying to get my car inspected for RWC
and I noticed the driver's side brake light is not working

Indicators, headlights, passenger side brake light is working, tailights working on both

Tried cleaning both contacts (wire side and bulb side), also replace new brake bulb (dual filament one) and still not working.

5 wires are connected going to the passenger side.

Can someone please shed some light

thanks

Author:  Kinkabell [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

Got a multimeter?

If so connect it up to the contact points and get someone to press on the brake pedal.

Also have you tried a different bulb?

Just because its new doesnt mean it works. I brought a bulb once and it looked perfect in everyway but was buggered when I tested it with the multimeter..

Author:  Razor [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:08 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yeah, I missed checking the reading when brake light's being depressed
I only measured when lights on and it read something like 11 volts

I tested this brake bulb from another car and works fine

if there's no reading on multimeter while pressing the brake pedal what should I look for to resolve the issue?

Author:  Kinkabell [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

You will need to check if there is a break in the wiring somewhere. Which also can be tested with a multimeter. This is made alot easier if you have a multimeter with a beeper built into it..

Author:  9YaTaH [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: No Brake Light - Urgent Help Pls

[quote="Razor"]Hi

I'm trying to get my car inspected for RWC
and I noticed the driver's side brake light is not working

Indicators, headlights, passenger side brake light is working, tailights working on both

Tried cleaning both contacts (wire side and bulb side), also replace new brake bulb (dual filament one) and still not working.

5 wires are connected going to the passenger side.

Can someone please shed some light

thanks[/quote]

Swap the bulb over that works to test the socket has power :idea:

Author:  Razor [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

My multimeter has a continuity tester (beeping noise) but the other end of the wire goes to the driver's side and blocked by the tank

Author:  Razor [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

9YaTaH
will try that

Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

I bet one of the contact springs in the bulbholder has had it.
Push the bulb in, if it lights then, you need another lamp base.

Author:  Razor [ Tue Aug 22, 2006 8:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

guess what today I tried the brake lights and everything seems to be working fine!!!

only thing I found out is that brake lights dont work if the car is not running or the key is not on the accesory/on position

Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 22, 2006 8:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

that is normal. :wink:

Author:  Razor [ Tue Aug 22, 2006 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

Oh ok I can sleep easy tonight :D

Author:  Razor [ Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

Last night everything was working perfectly and tonight the driver's side brake light and tailight is not working again!!!!
is t his normal to minis???? :shock:

Author:  Mike_Byron [ Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mr Lucas, the designer of british automotive electrical systems, was only happy when things wern't working or when the wires were letting their smoke out.


Try sticking half a match stick into the light socket - it may well be that the bulb and socket are a bad fit.

Author:  Razor [ Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

I had a look the inside the socket and the round thing inside doesnt look worn out at all and the bulb fits snugly. Is the socket replaceable? how do you pull it out from the assembly?

Author:  feralsprint [ Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:57 pm ]
Post subject: 

Lucas tended to use bullet type connectors on its looms and most problems with lucas looms tend to be in these units, he also tended to use big chunks of rubber as insulators on these joints and while they do work (30 years plus is not to bad) you will find that there is a join in the loom to run from the main rear loom to the other side, over the years the rubber works well insulating but after 30 years the corrosion on the bulllet connectors is pretty bad, either spend some time checking the connection or better still get a new connector and replace the thing :D

Anyone own a 10 year old Ford or Holden where most of the electrical system has already failed or a Bosch fitted electrical system, its a shame that these bad Lucas systems are failing after only 30 plus years and its amazing when you consider that most of them are powering stereo's and lights they were never ment to run

Jon

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