Was up at Winton earlier this year when I came off the track as the outer part (about 3 CM) of the CV joint had twisted off (LHS). Since I hadn't replace the bearings/CV joint in at least 1-2 years I figured it was due for a replacement.

Last weekend it was being broken in on some good corners/straights and after a successful Saturday, driving along a straight on Sunday the split pin gets eaten by the CV nut and both the nut and the washer spit out the side of the road. Upon further inspection, the thread for the CV nut on the CV joint has been sheared off - what could cause this to happen?

I torqued it up correctly to 150, does this sound like something else at work (too much force pushing the washer/nut outwards? Setup is Cooper S 7.5 discs with tapered wheel bearings (Timken). Should the torque be checked and re-tightened after some initial runs when replacing these parts?

I've got pot joints.

I've heard that you should torque up the bearing with a flat washer instead of the tapered one, then undo it and torque up with the tapered one... but shearing the thread off the CV joint must be an incredible feat

I had a left nut come undone at Wakefield - ate the split pin, I didn't lose the wheel though, the nut was *just* hanging on and it broke the rotor

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I've seen them shear off a few times but no definitive reason other than a few had been done by garages that did them up with rattle guns and then torqued them , maybe the shock from the rattle gun is too much ?

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I've seen the nuts strip, usually because someone used a cheapo nut, not the proper one...
Only CV threads I've seen strip were drum brake ones, where some dick overtightened to 150. All the drum ones (and 997-998 Cooper, which use drum type CV) should be 60 lb/ft.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.