i was tightening my front drums with the adjustment bolt thing, then all of a sudden it snapped brakes are still working as they did before it broke...
what do i do to fix this problem?? get a whole new set up? just buy the adjustment part ( if you can???)

it also looks like the head gasket is gooooone and i have a new cam that i want to fit, so i throught while its off i'll put it in...but the only problem is how???( i can do the gasket part..) all i know is that u gotta go in from the passenger side guard and cut out one of the slats for the rediator n thats all i no


any instructions and help greatly appreciated

cheers

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'75 windowless van
~LOLA~

I don't know about the brakes, but for the cam:

Just from thinking it through in my head, this is what i would do (i have never actually done it though):

-Remove radiator and shroud
-Remove fan
-Remove distributor and drive spindle
-Remove rockers and pushrods
-Remove cam followers (don't know how/if you would do this on a 1275, but you don't want to lose any of these)
-Remove timing chain cover
-Remove timing chain and sprockets
-Remove cam retaining plate/nut/shims (can't remember exactly what)
-Remove cam from engine BUT IF CAM IS SPIDER DRIVE YOU MUST NOT DROP THE SPIDER. If you drop the spider then reassemble the engine and try to start it there will be no oil supply and there will be a spider floating around in the gearbox

You will probably have to jack the car up to remove the wheel at some point as well and you may have to undo an engine mount so that you can tilt the engine to get the right angle to get the cam out (seem to remember reading this somewhere)

There is more info in one of the David Vizard books on modifying minis (the one with the white cover, i think)

As i mentioned before, some of these steps may not be necessary or i may have missed some steps so you should probably get confirmation from someone who has actually done this before. someone should also be able to tell you whether your cam is likely to be spider drive or not, based on the engine

I generally advise that dont do any more work on a car than is necessary. That is ; dont make the job any harder than it has to be.

I know cam shafts can be changed this way but its only a couple of hours work more to pull the motor out and do the cam change easily with good access to all the parts. You need to check a few things and yes oil pump drive type is one of those things. You need to make sure the cam bearings are in good shape before tossing in another cam. You need a NEW set of cam followers because the old ones will have wear patterns specific to the old cam.

Lumpy cams are a lot less tolerant of cam timing issues than standard ones so you have to get the timing exactly right. This is hard to do with the engine in the car. You will pobably need a new timing chain because the old one is stretched and its probably better to fit a double row timing chain and gears and that will mean taking off the front engine plate to have it drilled to accept countersunk allen key screws. That must be done for a double row timing chain set up. Otherwise you will chew up the original bolts.

The cam will change the performance charateristics of the engine and make it capable of being revved higher and harder provided valve springs and breathing are in place. But the engine must be in good shape generally or it will ultimately just go bang.

I would personally wait until you had a reason the pull the motor and do a reco or a freshen at the same time as the cam.

I'm going to sort of agree with Mike but also add that if you're going to do the head gasket and cam , you might as well pull the motor out and replace whatever seals are leaking or original and due to start leaking , driveshaft seals , timing cover seal (you'll have this apart anyway to do the cam but it's much easier with the engine out) etc . WHat's the motor , what gearbox and cv/uni's on the inners ?

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oops, forgot about that.

I would have to agree that i don't think changing the cam with the engine in the car is a very good idea. I wouldn't do it simply because i don't want to put a hole in the guard to get the cam out. My brother's mini has a hole in the right-front guard for access to the flywheel bolt and we are probably going to have to get that welded to get the car roadworthy

This is the exact reason why Lillee now runs a mystery cam rather than an RE13. Mike is right, either pull the whole thing out or leave it alone.

Throw in 1.5:1 rockers

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

okie dokie looks like i'll wait untill i've got a reason to pull the motor...
thanks 4 ur help!!

dose anyone have any ideas about the brakes?? are these the things i need - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Moke-Front-Drum-Brake-Wheel-Cylinder-Kit-New_W0QQitemZ300021230600QQihZ020QQcategoryZ32072QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


cheers James

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'75 windowless van
~LOLA~

nope, you don't need them. they are the actual cylinders that sit inside the drums. the adjusting mechanism is separate. maybe someone has a parts car that you can get one from? i don't think they would be a common thing to break as they aren't a wearing component and shouldn't be loaded very heavily.

Monkey,

Send a pm to one of several people on here who have heaps of spare bits and pieces for that brake adjuster you're after.

Mini Mulisha is one of those people - another has replied in this thread already.

Or contact Karcraft.......

Good luck m8

Hooroo

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/