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I'm gonna hardwire my triple clock gauges... COMPLETE!
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Author:  FatMaserati [ Sun Sep 03, 2006 3:03 am ]
Post subject:  I'm gonna hardwire my triple clock gauges... COMPLETE!
I'm gonna make an attempt at replacing the printed circuit on the back of my triple clock gauges. It's megaly rooted. The circuit itself is pretty straightforward. The only problem I can forsee is adapting this hardwiring to clip onto the 10 (or is it 12 - whatever) pin plug... Making it clip into the light globe holes will be easy enough. I think I know how I can do it... Wish me luck.

Oh, if anyone knows of anyone who has done this before, feel free to tell me. I tried searching for something but with no luck.
Author:  TurboOrangie [ Sun Sep 03, 2006 4:39 am ]
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I did something similar when I rewired my whole Mini with a modified Suzuki harness. I ended up mating some of the Suzuki guage mechanicals to the Mini guage housings/faces. With a wiring diagram, the old printed circuit, some brain power and some time it's not too bad to do. Good luck with that.
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hardwiring is done. It looks a bit "all over the place" but I assure you, its all really solid.

This is how I did it:

1. Grabbed an old wiring loom I had in the shed, and salvaged the main 12-pin connector from it. I compared it to the one in my Mini, making sure the coloured wires were the same.

2. Cut off the different coloured wires, noting what colour came from each pin.

3. Created the circuit just by using the old printed circuit and following that like a map. Nice new cables and connectors makes the job more reliable. I just took a lot of time and patience to make sure the circuits were recreated accurately and reliably.

4. The coloured wires have female blade terminals on them, and the original connector is no longer used. You end up with 10 terminals (pin 7 wasn't used, and pins 8 and 9 are from the same source/wire).

5. I cut the connector off the loom in my Mini, and put male blade terminals on the end of each wire. I left enough wire on the connector to put female blade terminals on it, just in case I want to use the original connector at any stage in the future. All I need to do its connect it back up with the blade terminals.

6. Then all I did was connect the wires up with each other, that is, black to black, green with white stripe to green with white stripe etc... so if I ever take the gauges off, it's very easy to plug the wires back in correctly. Once the 10 wires were all plugged in, I just grabbed all the loose bits, tied them up with a cable tie, and it's all very study and neat and reliable. All the connectors are in real tight and the wires are joined nice and study like.


Image
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:47 pm ]
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This is what my printed cirucit was like before, by the way. Notice the cracking and complete breaks in the top left, as well as the scratched printed circuit plastic.

Image
Author:  Razor [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:57 pm ]
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so everything works now?
have you tested the gauges?
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
The lights that actually light up the gauges when you have your headlights on still aren't lighting up. My fuel gauge still isnt working. But these things could be related to the voltage stabiliser, which I'm replacing soon anyway, or to some other non-related issue. My horn still isnt working, so I may have an earthing problem somewhere else in the car, though I'm quite certain it's not because of my wiring (as it was doing it before I fixed the printed circuit).

It solved a few of the problems (left and right indicator lights on the gauges now work perfectly) and no new problems have arisen. I'll try a new voltage stabiliser and see what that does.
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
FatMaserati wrote:
The lights that actually light up the gauges when you have your headlights on still aren't lighting up.....
Have you checked the switch? Not the headlight switch, the little twist switch under the dash. :wink: (I assume that you already know about this switch but I have seen a lot of posts about dash lights not working and they didn't know about the switch!) :wink:
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:21 pm ]
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the what!? that little 'P' twisty switch?
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:27 pm ]
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Thats the one. :wink:
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:45 pm ]
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OMG im so gonna go try that after dinner.
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:28 pm ]
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I replaced that stupid clunky twisty switch with a simple toggle switch... AND MY DASH LIGHTS WORK 100% PERFECTLY! Never in my 5 years of owning a Mini have I ever had dash lights at night. No more using the occasional street light to check my speed!

I'm guessing that old P switch was a variable resistor, and you could get vary the brightness of the dash lights, right? Well, I would want them the brightest they can go anyway, so it doesn't matter that I've changed it to a simple on-off toggle switch. I just get '100%' or 'off' now.
Author:  FatMaserati [ Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:31 pm ]
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So the only things that arent working now (electrics speaking) is my fuel gauge and my horn (and my windscreen washer because I don't actually have one installed in my mini - LOL).

The hardwiring worked a charm. And I'll never have the problem of crappy printed circuits in the future.
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