I had a previous thread here which is titled Hard Gear Selection
anyway it was hard to select all the gears except reverse

I tried adjusting the clutch and followed this procedure
http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/id68.html

and it made the gear shifting impossible, it wont even go in the gear gates and pedal feel is very different there's no feel of fluid pushing if you know what I mean.

Then I unbolted the throwout stop nut maybe with 2mm - 3mm gap between the clutch cover and I can shift the gear better now. But still hard to change from neutral to 1st gear but can easily be change by going to 2nd then 1st.

here's a pic of the throwout stop nut with the gap
sorry about the flash, it was getting dark

Can anyone give me an advice?

Have you tried bleeding the clutch system completely?

Also you might have a syncro (?) on gear 1. Sometimes my car refuses to go into gear in one because it thinks the wheels are still going. So now I just move the stick slightly towards second and then up and it engages every time.

Shard

Sounds like it is definately clutch related, not gearbox related. (not to say your gearbox is fine, just that the sy,ptoms you describe sound like the clutch isn't disengaging properly.

Things to do:
1) Back off the big nuts (throw out stop) a bit further, it seems that they are obsolete with the new design clutch plates!
2) Adjust the clutch return stop as described in the manual
3) Check slave cylinder operation
4) Bleed master cylinder
5) Check for any loose play, replace all worn bits, new gear lever, clevis pins etc. Including the pedal to master cylinder one
6) Check throw out bearing and replace, as well as the bearing carrier.

Have you checked your gear change linkages are all in order?

Cheers
Matt

havent tried bleeding the clutch cylinder

my gear shifting is like normal now I just have to go 2nd gear to be able to select 1st
it's much better than before.

Just that there's a bigger gap between the throwout stop nut and the clutch cover than normal.

I might adjust it more out and see if I can select the 1st gear better.

I'll get it checked soon anyway just been busy.

Hhhhmm having read the instructions you used you've probably deliberately reduced your clutch travel.

Certainly do the first bit. The adjustment bolt half way down the clutch arm controls clutch operation. I adjust mine to have 10 thou clearance - you generally need as much travel as you can get due to wear in the linkage system.

In 30 years I have never seen a Mini clutch overthrow. I’m sure someone has had trouble but no one I know. Adjust the stop bolt, make sure the clutch works ( ie that there aren’t any other problem lurking) then make sure the throw out stop is well clear of the clutch cover when the pedal is fully depressed… I generally just leave the nuts off.

Cheers, Ian

What's everyone's clutch arm gap?
I adjusted it to 0.020"

Ian is using 0.010"

So adjust the throwout stop nut away from the clutch cover as long as its working better?

Cos it certainly helped the shifting when the throwout stop nut is more away from the cover.

This comes from my limited knowledge about minis...

As I understand there needs to be a bit of a gap, if there isn't then the bearing will be making contact and constantly spinning = quickly worn out bearing. If you have to screw it out further to get better gear changes then something is wrong with the system.

I am just going through this myself and have replaced everything to try and get more travel. It turns out I have a brake MC trying to do the job of a clutch MC and it can't. The clutch MC moves more fluid than a brake one because it has a larger bore size.

Might be worth checking hat you don't have 2 brake MC's apparently it is quite common and probably the reason a lot of minis are hard to get into 1st.

Failing that the ball on the end of the arm and the bearing carrier may both be worn out.

_________________

the clutch arm gap didnt make any noticeable changes when I changed it
its the throwout stop nut that made my gear shifting better when I moved it further away from the cover.

oh how do I know if I have to brake MCs? not really sure whats the difference visually from the two right now...

I had a similar problem a while back, tried setting up clutch as per workshop manual ,could't get it to work properly,after re-kitting slave &master cylinder bloody thing still wasn't right(i started running out of ideas at this stage .) i eventually had stainless sleeves put in both cylinders(approx $100 to do both, new kit's and clutch is fine. Once i determined that it was a hydraulic problem,(a mate watched clutch arm whilst pedal was depressed, it was very slowly creeping back,)therefore by-passing fluid.Turned out it was all caused by a small pitt mark in the master cylinder that i thought would be ok.

Sorry I thought you were talking about the arm gap.
I think you can undo those nuts completely.
The brake MC have 0.7" embossed on the outside of the body both mine do.
Mine have the plastic reservoir at the top and both look identical.
The clutch MC should be 0.75"

_________________

I didnt check if the clutch arm was slowly moving back with clucth pedal depressed

will check that tomorrow

as I said its changing like normal now just need to go 2nd to 1st to get into 1st gear from full stop

just not sure of the throwout stop nut having a bigger gap than what's explained in the clutch adjustment site

TimB I will check whats embossed on both cyclinders body

hmmm interesting that means i dont have to worry about it then....

I've been told that you can run them without the nuts at all ( not sure if there's any long term affect ) i know that afew blokes that used to run mini's at the speedway 20 odd years ago didn't bother with them, someone might be able to tell us more.