Any magic answer that make easier to pull the head?

Other than,remove nuts and studs, disconnect host to water pump, add penetrating oil and hang engine from roof by the head.....wonder what the huge noise is in the night..

2 rocker cover bolts, 5 manifold nuts, 9-11 head nuts, 1 heater outlet hose (if installed), 1 top hose off. That's all. Why do you need to hang the head?

My record for changing a head gasket was about 1 hour and that was taking it easy and stopping to brink beer every 5 mins

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I have never had it apart so I have no idea what state it is in and I had filled the bores with oil until I could rebuild it so all that has to come out.

try geting a long craft knife in there, or hit it with a hammer!

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Call me stupid but...

Do you need take off the rocker gear or does th ehad come off with it in situ?

I havent seen an A-series head. Do the rocker bolts bolt through the head to block or to the head only?

Please ignore RTFM resolved the problem

Better off to take it off, half the bolts/studs that hold it on also are for the head itself. The smaller ones (in middle) are only into head.

Remove pushrods by jiggling them a little (to stop the follower sticking) and note position in case of uneven wear.

Separate head by levering between water pump and head is probably easiest, some people use a hammer too.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

don't for get to drain the cooling system first also

Yep and make sure you giggle the push rods otherwise the folloews will come off the Cam and you will have real run if this happens unless you have a 1100 or a Cooper S motor (still not fun even is you have these) been thier and done that

One additional thing I'll add...replace the head studs they may have stretched and if one brakes its head off again...What size motor if its a 998 or 1100 get youself a ACL head gasket, they are the best...its black with blue trace on it

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

not sure where you underpants are...but if i'm sure if your free on Saturday a couple of us could give you a hand for a beer or two

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

No real need to replace head studs, the late ones are same as an S anyhow.
But if they are the BOLTS that BMC used in late 60s-early 70s, they DO break easy now- I'd bin em and fit studs/nuts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yep thats what I did

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

No can do. Thanks anyway. The Moke is Mon - Friday project (except when working) and the weekends are tied up with children to sport transfer, working on the Jag for its next work trip and other stuff.

I will have the head off tomorrow should all be OK. Its just I have never worked on an engine that was pushrod. Now I have a better understanding of how it hangs together it should be fine. However that beer is available for future use if I get really stuck.

Coolant drained, front five nuts and studs came out clean and healthy and appear unstreched, its an 1100 but I will be careful. Thanks

ow and undo the by pass hose also...can be a pain and not want to disconnect when the head is comming off,...just a pain really..take the other 4 bolts/Studs off and the manifolds and it should come easy enough if its Studs you may need to giggle it around to lift it.

if you have head bolts don't trust if they don't look stretch just change tem anyway

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The head is off and apart from decoking it looks fine. Thanks everybody..now to take check the clutch.