Danis dad here, we went and looked at a cooper S advertised in the trading post today. it is advertised at $11,000 must admitt we were rather tempted too, its a very nice car with matching No"s. but other financial commitments make it a bit tough atm.
Anyway after all the discussion about real and replica S's on here, we learnt another that was unmentioned but seems to ring true..it may be usefull to someone else, perhaps everyone knows it but here goes. There is a small hole with a gromet in it in the upright pannel under the rear seat on the passenger side. apparently its only there on S's.
first thing we did when we got home was have a look at both, and sure enough its only on the S. dont even know what its for...
any thoughts on it?????

Dani's Dad,
It is for the breather for the electric fuel pump. It is not supposed to be fitted with a grommet, rather a small one way white plastic valve. A clear line runs from the pump to the valve and draws in cabin air into the pump to stop dust etc. A few years ago I wrote a small publication called "mini Cooper S the original story" I sent a few copies to various clubs, ironically after a computer crash I lost my own copy. If anyone else has a copy floating around could they perhaps scan and post it or make a copy and I will retype it. It had stacks of info on picking a genuine one, as well as engine and body no's, colours available to each year, including the setup changes from year to year to help with a resto. Most of the info is still floating around in my head or at home, but time restricts me from re-doing the booklet.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Does this mean the Elec fuel pump was placed in the boot rather than on the subframe. All the Elec fuel pumps I have seen only have 2 fuel lines...why would it need air ?

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

DaniDad........ wasn't this one was it????

Gaf,
All things that run point in `em (like dizzys & SU pumps) need air ventilation. This is because the arcing of the points breaks air down into ozone and it attacks plastics, rubber etc. Dizzys have a vent hole somewhere too.
The S had the SU pump on the subframe, and an air vent hose up into the car, as it is in a position where it gets covered in mud and water during rallies.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yep,,,& just to let you all know (if you don`t allready)

Ozone also happens to be a very good electrical conductor,,,so, if you did seal up your dizzy cap (or your fuel pump) you`ll find, in a short period of time, that your car will stop,,,& upon inspection , most probably open the dizzy cap which will release all that lovely conductive ozone gas & with nothing else visably wrong with the car, it will happilly start & run again...

tricky hey???

lots of 4x4 people fell for that one years ago trying to avoid getting the dizzy wet inside thay`d seal the dizzy cap,,,

hence, the moral of that story is,,,don`t "SEAL UP" your dizzy cap or fuel pump

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yep SG thats the one. did you have a look too??.
well you learn something new everyday. thanKs for all the answers.
PS Miniman it was a pleasure to meet you and your dad (hes a top bloke) and thanks for all your help.

I dont know about sealing the dizzy but I do have the commen house hold glove around it so the water does not get in.

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

If you fit a Pulsar dizzy, you won't need that..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Gafmo,
I am pretty sure the rubber glove is part no HYA12345. A must for every serious mini tuner. G. lol

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

PS thanks heaps for the rims will fit a treat. Good to meet you guys, and swap a yarn. Hope to run into yall again sometime. G

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

I dunno what I do differently, but I have never ever had a wet distributor problem - all I do is clip the cap on!

I've been driving minis since I got my license 10 years ago, I drive a mini to work every day, through the rain storms in winter, driven in rain with no grille, you name it and I even drove my mini K through about a creek about 2 meters wide and 20cm deep - the carpet started floating, just kept my foot down, it chugged a little on the slope going up the other side, then off we went to practise hand brake turns

but I hear about other people who practically get a wet dizzy on a sunny day!

Wash my van at one of those self serve car wash places and you'll see the full effect of water in a dizzy!

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Just be a little bit careful about this. Virtually ALL Minis originally fitted with electric fuel pumps had this hole under the rear seat. This includes 850s, 997+998 Coopers as well as Cooper 'S' and Clubman GT cars.
This is only one of the things that makes an 'S' different.

Don't get sucked in!

Regards
RonR

Someone may be able to explain to me why but i have never had a problem with my dizzy in pouring rain and i have been told the EFI arent really affected. Why is this so?