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 Post subject: weld proofing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:15 pm
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Location: caboolture qld
whats the best way to rust proof a fresh weld so that rust doesn't accure in years to come eg etch primer, fishalean, spraytar, etc.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:16 pm 
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Where is the weld situated, ie is it under the car or on something detachable for example?.

It's hard to say without knowing what environment it will be exposed to. Say it were a seat mount then 1 coat etch primer and 2 coats of topcoat would probably be adequate.

Daniel

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:22 pm 
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Location: caboolture qld
the welds are on the rear beaver panel (bumper seam), rear driver side window rubber seam, floor panes, exaust tunnel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:52 pm 
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I've been using POR-15. Not cheap though. About $100 for a litre + metal ready treatment (essentially rust converter).

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 Post subject: treating new welds
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:02 am 
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just clean it up and etch prime it.Then prime and top coat.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:49 am 
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You also need to be carefull that you don't actually CAUSE rust with your weld.

I read a great article about welding a while back. It said to snip the end of your MIG wire off before you start every weld, as the tip is oxidised or something from finishing the previous weld. If you don't, you could push oxidisation into your weld, which will start to rust pretty soon after.

Something like that anyway.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:50 am 
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por-15 would be good but a bit exspensive i've got some etch primer left i'll use that

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:51 am 
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GT that makes sence actually i'll do that cheers

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:08 am 
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CRC make a product called "Zinc It", its a zinc spray that you can put on the welds or other bare metals to protect it from rust & oxidisation etc

Por15 is great as it can also cover any pinholes that might be left and prevents the rust from forming again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:56 pm 
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Many moons ago when I did my welding course we were shown a "galvanizing Stick" It was mainly for welding Gal steel but would work on anything I guess. You ran your weld, chip off the slag and while still hot you rub the stick along the weld. It was a bit like solder but different. It melted and ran a galvanized looking coat over the hot area.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 2:54 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
Many moons ago when I did my welding course we were shown a "galvanizing Stick" It was mainly for welding Gal steel but would work on anything I guess. You ran your weld, chip off the slag and while still hot you rub the stick along the weld. It was a bit like solder but different. It melted and ran a galvanized looking coat over the hot area.


Id forgotten about them. Might get a pack and keep them in the cupboard

I wire brushed mine so I got all the rubbish and oxide off them, sprayed some cold gal, etch primed them and then added some sealant over the top.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:01 pm 
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Cold gal is probable the easiest way and works well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:36 pm 
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Location: caboolture qld
where would i get cold gal from and what is it

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:49 pm 
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You should be able to buy it at any Good hardware store for about $15 - $20 per can...

Its a quick drying undercoat type spray used to cover welds on galvanised steel or any steel for that matter.

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 Post subject: cold galve
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:02 pm 
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I cold galved the whole underside of my mini. It was a bit pricey though just under 20 beans for a can. I dont know that it is a great deal better than a good etch primer but judging by the amount of rust that was in my mini I wasnt leaving much to chance. Theres also this stuff called zinc rich primer/weld through primer. Its a load of crap, after spraying it everywhere I realized that its not quite as weld through as the packaging suggested. So i ground it off and cold galved it afterwards.

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