Just a note of thanks to Granty for selling me a really cheap rebuilt motor with a beautiful BURN mega deep on both side of one of the bores. This has made the buying of this motor a COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY for me.
I would strongly recommend the distancing of anyone else from doing what I did in believing gullibly what peole say about their engines. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sounds like the lil clips that hold the gudgion pin in has fallen out happend to me
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Do a drive by and put it through his car or house.

Bugger It's a bloody shame but you just can't go by a persons word anymore.

Thanks mini13k Thats EXACTLY what it sounds like

Settle Petal, it may be fixable relatively easy (easy for me to say!!).

If the bores arent to bad, you may be able to get them honed, sized and who knows? You may get away with just fitting new rings and circlips...

Stil a huge PITA though.....it is always a bit of a lucky dip when buying secong hand (even with "all the receipts" for overhaul work!

Good Luck

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"Show me the Mini!"

9y usually when the gudgin pin flops round it scores the bore perty bad
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

bummer...sorry to hear about that. I would be pissed too if I bought that!

Hate to hear stories like this.

Have you had the block looked at by an engine place? You might wanna head out to North Geelong Engine Reconditioners. I've had a head done by them, so has my cousin. My uncle who is a diesel machanic recomended them to me. Go see what they have to say about it.

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That happened to me once, running Hillman Imp pistons in a 1098. At 8,000+ rpm a circlip broke, pin came out and scored the bore big time. End of that block..

If you are going to rev a motor hard with circlip type pins (eg 998, 1098) you can get PTFE (Teflon) buttons that go in each end of the pin, & don't use the circlips.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hey doc , polytetraflouroethene (i think) is a polymer.
how can you replace metal clips with something that is a meltable plastic
wouldnt it be really hot in there
i guess cooking pans are coated with it
or are they teflon coated metal buttons?

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Do a drive by and put it through his car or house.<----------- hahahaha do that idea that will teah em 2 sell a funny motor hehe good thinkin harley

sc12's (supercharger for a 4AGZE) have teflon coated bits. superchargers are always the lowest of temperatures either.. guess it works?

PTFE will stand a lot of heat. People use these buttons in racing Sprites etc. All they gotta do is hold the gudgeon pin from moving out- ther's not much load there, and there's heaps of oil scraped onto them by the oil ring.
I will never build another 1098 motor with Imp pistons and stock circlips... Imp clips don't seem deep in their grooves..

<edit> they are actually a stepped shape- they are 5/8" diameter but are turned down with a smaller dia part that goes 1/2" inside the pin. Pretty robust.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I 've got two great HOLES in the sides of no 2 bore about 10 mm wide by 3-4 mm deep ! Way beyond reboring So thanks for the care and advice but this little black duck has learned his lesson............