i started to loose pedal feel. i tryed bleeding and it seem to improve it slightly but then it faded. i replaced the master and slave and fitted a new hose bled it up and still had no clutch. then i found the knob off the end of the clutch lever was snapped off in the bearing carrier. i replaced the arm and ajusted the clutch up and i still can't get gears. if i start it in gear with the clutch in it will creep forward. does anybody have any ideas. the only otherthing i can think of the the diaphram. it has about 3000 miles on his clutch.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Adjust the clutch return as per the manual.

Also check for play in all of the pins.

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

the pins and ajustment are good

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

For whatever reason, the clutch isn't traveling far enough to fully release the clutch so it drags. If it was working before and not now, it may mean that the master cylinder and slave cylinder is blameless unless you have broken them somehow. Try giving them another bleed to see if some air has snuck in..

Other than that, a mistake I use to make when I first started pissing around with clutches was to think that just because I had pulled the arm out, that the bearing was now touching the clutch and to adjust the bolt to suit. This isn't always so.

I do it now by lightly pressing the pedal with your hand . You can feel small stages at the top of the pedal as you press it down until the clutch pressure comes on.
The light rattle you can feel at the top of the pedal stroke is the slack in the clevis pins inside the car, you can rattle this back and forth and work out if the pedal in the car is being let down by the clevis pin under the parcel tray connecting it to the master cylinder.
If you press the pedal down further again past the initial rattle the clutch arm will now start to move and eventually you will feel the pedal pressure get harder. You have now got the throwout bearing contacting the clutch. The gap between the bolt on the clutch cover and the arm can now be seen for real and adjusted.

I find it's easier and more accurate to play with the clutch pedal with your hand to feel this out, so you may need a helper under the bonnet to spot the true gap.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

the ajustment seems good. i have found that the pedal is not goin fully to the floor it seems to hit something but there is nothing blocking it. i thought it could be the over throw stop so i spun it wright back. but it still wont hit the floor. could the diaphram be stuffed and the clutch bearing hitting the little knob on the top of the flywheel bolt.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

It's probably the piston hitting the circlip at the end of the slave cylinder mounted on the clutch housing. It can't go any further.
I'll bet your old arm was bent slightly to allow more throw or that the ball end on this new one is pretty worn.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

this is interesting but i still feel it is adjustment, it only takes a very small amount of free play in the pedal like Mike has said for it to reuin the whole clutch, as you have a new master cyl the piston arm hole should be ok but i bet the clevis pin and the hole in the pedal are elongated mine was like this too as i think most are after 40 years of use, i removed my pedal and drilled th ehole larger and turned down a high tensile bolt and fitted that and it improved mine tremendously. check it again.

another problem i had many moons and motors ago was that 2 thrust washers had fallen out of the motor and were int he sump, thus allowing the crank to move a good 40thou if not more, check the crank end float by using a pri bar on the front pulley push it in then lever it out and see how much movment you have.

(for the record this was a motor built by at the time a good mini spares place, since then i have built my own motors and i have not seen this again, i wonder why i also had oil pressure problems with this motor....)

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

If pedal is NOT hitting the floor and the 2 big nuts are away from the cover, I bet a beer it's hitting the circlip.
This occurs on these old motors because every time you lap the flywheel onto the crank, it goes on further and then you need the clutch bearing to push further in, which means top of clutch arm further out..
3 choices, choose 1 only......
1. remove circlip, it has no purpose other than to stop slave cylinder's piston falling out when it's on the shelf.
2. Heat and bend the clutch arm towards the slave cylinder.
3. Weld 1/4" onto the end of the slave cylinder pushrod.

Any of these mods will do it, I use #1.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

good point Doc you are probably right again

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

the rod has been weld already. if the diaphram is stuffed is it possible that it is flexing enough to hit the flywheel bolt. i will remove the circlip and see how i go

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

I had a similar issue...

The MiniMan extended the pushrod and problem solvered.

The key point is that the pedal isn't going to the floor, it's standing off, I would just check the adjustments again. You may be reading too much into the problem as it is sooooooo commonly on this site. It always feels worse than it is.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

all is good now thanks kev. i was goinin out of my mind trying to fix it.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose