Has anyone got any ideas on this one?

I am currently driving a 1310A+ turbo motor (without the turbo) in my clubby. The engine has gut a ket 286 megadine cam, 45 weber, brownrigg LCB extractors (1.75 inch), lightend flywheel, cross pin diff etc.

I built the car to go fast which it does. But these days i'm a bit older and would like a little more fuel economy so i'm changing the carby setup to a HIF44SU (1.75 inch) with a metro inlet manifold and i'm changing to a 3 to 1 cooper extractor.

My question is the carby has a BEJ needle. This is the standard metro needle. Does anyone know a good needle to get for a compromise between fuel economy and a little performance.

Currently I'm getting really bad fuel economy. Driving steadily last week i managed to do 350km to a tank. Did i mention ive got twin tanks, thats about 40ltrs. I work that out to be about 11ltrs per 10km. NOW THATS BAD!!

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71 Clubie, 1310A+, 45 Weber, Kent286md cam, Brownrigg extractors

You can start by reading this:

http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

Also download WinSU. Search for it on Google.

The BEJ will be way too lean.

My engine is similar to what your new set up will be and I run a BBW at the moment. It was a bit lean on cruise and pickup so I have it set richer, now the idle is now a bit rich.

Once you pick a start you will then need a to run it on a dyno or with an AF meter otherwise you are just guessing.

in order to get the best economy, you need a needle with the correct profile to suit the fuel/air demands of your engine. Using a slightly leaner needle may give slightly better fuel economy, but only if it is correct for your engine and leans it out in the correct range.

What i am trying to say is don't just stick the leanest needle you can find in because it won't work. I don't know what needle would be suitable for your setup, but you can compare needle profiles here:

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

I have imported and sold a couple of HIF44 carbies now. I also use one on my own 1310 mini.

As said before, you have to match a needle to your particular engine but i am not going any further than that on that issue.

What I did want to comment on is the HIF archilles heel. They have a very different choke mechanism to an ordinary SU - its a valve turn thingo as a simple explanation and that is sealed by an "O" ring. Almost always, as soon as a HIF dries out after using lead free crap fuels this seal hardens and allows raw unmetered fuel to be sucked into the engine.

You, therefore, need to put a kit through any HIF that has been standing dry. Midel Aust (in Sydney) sell them and they are not harbour bridges - something like $20 - $25. Doit before you fit the carby and start fiddling with the needle chase.

Hi,
i think you shoud try a BBW or BCE , BBW is leaner at part throttle and richer at full throttle:

BCE 990 950 900 872 835 795 768 740 705 675 645 615 585 555 525 495

BBW 990 950 923 900 870 832 792 750 717 682 647 610 577 540 505 470


I have a .xls doc with the specs of almost all SU needles .. but i don´t know how to put it in here, but if anyone is interested i can mail it.
You should also try a yellow dashpot spring... if you experience flat spots in accelaration.

hope it helps,
Luis

Thanks guys.

Luis,
If you could send that .xls file that would be great.
My email is [email protected]
Thanks heaps
Daniel

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71 Clubie, 1310A+, 45 Weber, Kent286md cam, Brownrigg extractors