One thing that shits me when people give the excuse as to why they fitted a Pulsar distributor vs a Lucas distributor.

"The Pulsar distributor has no wear in it".

WTF IDIOT.

The Lucas distributor is so 'sloppy' because chances are it's 30++ years old.
Rebuild it for 50 dollars , and it will be good for another 30 years.



The proper advance curve.
Fits in the hole.
No driving pins out of dog drives.
No changing electric systems.

GO LUCAS

Screw Lucas

All the other 'LUCAS' small blocks got caned by the pulsar dizzy, GO THE PULSAR

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Whoopdy do Gotta adjust points...

Not the hardest thing to do

Haha i find it funny that if they are so bad with the wrong curve how people driving a pulsar'd mini wouldn't be able to tell the difference or would even comment on how nice it drives.

I don't use half the curve anyway just keep it up the top end baby

I havn't touched mine in over a year. Yes, that is a benefit! ...just like drums vs discs...don't have to adjust them either!

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Top-end JC

i've been told by a very respected mini guru that pulsar dizzy's are poo.
thats all i need to know

If it bother's you that much, get it adjusted by said mini guru for the correct advance curve

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

yeah, or i could use a mini dizzy which already has the correct curve LOL!

Yet as the points wear so does the timing and you are forever fiddling with it doing 'tune ups'...wouldn't it be better to have the correct curve and set and forget? Let along the stronger spark, higher resistance to the weather etc..

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

those are good points, but for the effort and cost of the pulsar, i'll whack some new points in for $7 or whatever

anyway, this would make an excellent article for mini experience, where GR compares the different ignitions on the same engine or sommit

Certainly would..umm..cost is like $50 for the dizzy..plus whatever GR charges to adjust..no more than $50-100 again...cheap..and you'll never need to buy a set of points.

Should we get willy started on honda discs too?

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

i think we all agree that 7" cooper discs reign supreme

haha...i think 235mm Tarox 6pots do

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Pulsar dizzy is very close to cooper s, the right onw of course as originally all nissan (datsuns in some countries) were based upon Austin designs. And for the record the mod takes 15 mins. Took me that long, just haven't fitted it yet, too lazy. And in my case it WILL add performance, 850 dizzy doesn't have enuf total advance for my car, forgetting that mine is 40+ years old and crap. And also, jsut to be honest here...Lucas is crap and I will NEVER trust it. I've been thru 3 lucas alternators from the late 70s, yes they are old, and yes they produce low power, but right now i'm happy with pulsar alternator. I understand some people's anti-jap stuff, and love for originality and to be british, and yeah I lvoe that too jsut sometimes I get sick of the crap and move on! Ask Dr Mini what he thinks of pulsar dizzy's!

_________________
1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

NONE of the Lucas or Pulsar dizzys have the right curve for a modified A series.
Both the Lucas and the Pulsar need modding to make perfect.
If you are serious about getting the best torque all the way up in a road engine, no more than 8-10* distributor centrifugal advance is needed.
GR has modded both Lucas and Pulsar ones to achieve this.

Now that's out of the way, back to the dispute- at least the Pulsar fires each cylinder at the same point, and has no points to adjust or bounce.
By the time you convert a Lucas to electronic with a Pertronix etc, you have just spent another $120+ and it still has its sloppy bearings and worn out advance springs.

Now, I'll just wait for the price of Marcel's 123 dizzy to drop to A$200, and I'll go buy it...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.