So I am trying to start the moke with no success

I have fuel now drawn into the bowl.

The starter turns so the ignition, solonoid and starter are OK.

How ever it appears I am getting no spark.

I have 12 v at the coil. The LT lead has been replaced.

Does anybody have a pic of their coil setup so I can check mine.

Thanks

the plugs are wet so fuel is OK,

I cant get the HT lead to short to the block so I assume either the coil is stuffed or wired incorrectly.

Anybody help with a difinitive description of the wiring to the coil?

this is as good as a photo

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thats what I needed. Thanks.

take the cap off the distributor and get the points to a closed position, flick the points contact open and it should give a little spark across the points...

if you've got it like my picture and no spark at the HT lead or plugs, but there is spark at the points, then try another coil

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Just had this type of problem myself, here is some things i would check:

1. coil could be stuffed.

2. Have you checked your condenser in the dizzy, are you getting a spark accross the points??

2. Replace points and condenser if not done so recently.

3. BE SURE THAT THE POINTS, NEGATIVE LEAD FROM THE COIL AND THE CONDENSER LEAD ARE NOT EARTHING OUT. Put a multimeter acroos it. There should be some rubber groimits on the terminal where these are all connected.

You will need to get a spark before she will fire up and is you cant spakr the HT lead to the block, you have a problem. Hope i have been of some help. Please read my 'No Spark' thread as i have just solved my problem and you may find some extra tips in there.

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Bloke

Check that the points are set and wired correctly, make sure that the wires on the points have the plastic insulator going through the connectors, so the order is bottom insulator, then pionts spring , wires , insulator then washer and nut. you can check by opening the points and then use a metre to check for short, it should read as open circuit when you check from earth to the points spring when points open,if it reads as earth you have a problrem in wiring or condensor is stuffed

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Bloke, throw away the multimeter and use your tongue.

Especially good for checking HT voltages.

Oh and try not to break any fingers or other parts of body if you can manage it.

And don't forget to write the how-to once you are done.


Seriously, check the resistance of the primary winding of you coil. Just to check it isn't open circuit. May as well check the seconday too. If either is open circuit, replace it obviously.

Check that the dizzy side of the coil swings between 0 and 12v as you turn the motor over by hand. If not check your points are opening/closing.

Sounds like you are close.

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

1. coil could be stuffed.
Probably

2. Have you checked your condenser in the dizzy, are you getting a spark accross the points??
Yep, when closed or shorted

2. Replace points and condenser if not done so recently.
New 12months ago - ish

3. BE SURE THAT THE POINTS, NEGATIVE LEAD FROM THE COIL AND THE CONDENSER LEAD ARE NOT EARTHING OUT. Put a multimeter acroos it. There should be some rubber groimits on the terminal where these are all connected.
Felt in my case, so I will replace with rubber

Thanks, I checked the other thread it was of use

A How-To on how to get a car running with only red wiring - wrotten ^%%$^ TPO

My coil is 12v both sides running or not

So your points aren't closing or arent connected to the coil?

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

Before you do too much changing things........

Has it run beefore

If so, remove number one plug, put HT lead back on...hold it up against the block (earth - you do have an earth lead from the bottom of the clutch cover to the subframe don't you )

Get an assitant to crank her over or short out the solenoid bolts yourself (just quickly)....see if you get a spark across the spark gap. If you get one...you could try the other three to give you some confidence.

But more importantly, have you had the distributor out loosened off

We need to know a little more about how long its been sitting before we start suggesting you fiddle with stuff that could just cause more problems on top of the original

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"Show me the Mini!"

You'll have 12 volts both sides of the coil (earth -----a///////b----batt)
reference a and b to earth is 12volts if you can work that out where //// is the coil.

Years ago when you actually got roadside service from the RACV I had a serviceman spend 3 hours in the dark and rain fiddling with the ignition system - we had spark but no go - finally he put in a new coil and vaarrrooom - spark but not enough to fire anything

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Try new plugs too, Ziff and I had a devil of a time with a weak blue watery spark, new plugs and away it went VaVoom!!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

No promises but i am in Sydney over the weekend - Saturday is a dead duck but sunday depends on the SWMBO - just where is queens park

Pm me with details - maybe I can give you half an hour or what ever time it takes to do a stubbie. I will not be allowed to deviate too much off a westerly course thought