zz

PM 9YaTaH (Mick) on here for some localised advice , he's either replaced or due to replace soon the floorpans on his mini and is in Canberra . If he can't advise you he'd know someone who can .
Are you doing the job yourself with replacement panels or plain steel ?

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Also find yourself a copy of the haynes mini restoration manual. Lots of step by step photos and stories of this same panel replacement.

Pans:
The front floorpans we get from UK are not the same as Oz ones from 67 on.They are similar to the earlier Oz cars- I did a 64 850 without much problem.

If doing a later car you will need to do fabrication and surgery to duplicate the 2 underfloor trays in the floorpans. The grooves are all wrong too.

Sills:
Oz Minis had different sills to the UK ones. They had 6 vents. Ours have 1 tiny one- are NLA now.
I heard a rumour A Grade Panels in Melbourne can make them up.
Or you can get a bit of flat sheet folded.

On my son's Clubby I just used the wider aftermarket (6 bump, no vent) UK ones, and just cut the width a bit. No vents, but why let water in anyhow...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it's not a rumor.... I have one sitting in my garage... it is just a bit of folded sheet, but zinc coated, about $40

I need to replace my sill, and an A panel - I think I'll get the haynes book cos I'm crap scared

Lord..getta load a dis

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... +lookalike

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"Show me the Mini!"

Hi I have done a full floor replacment in a roundie and am in ACT you are welcome to come have a look as I haven't put anything in the shell. Call Brendon at A-grade to knock you up the goods. He's a really tops Guy and will be more than willing to give you the tips to a sucessfull rust protection.

my tips
leave about 2 inches overlap on the floor, clean out any rust and weld in and out the body. Preperation is really helpfull here. Saves you soo much time when your welding

then seal it up once your happy it's safe, you don't want to do it again

buy some decent undersealer and primer. rust converter helps

I would use a MIG welder and do small runs (so you don't buckle the panels)
angle grinder and steel brushes helpfull too. feel free to eamil mee for advice or to come round to see how it should look like

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

does that mean you have a 2 inch pocket between the panels? won't that rust?

I prepped mine with rust converter and sealed it up before welding, shouldn't go if it's coated, wouldn't leave steel bare anywhere otherwise it will rust for sure

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

Thanks for all that... I've got the Magnum floorpan fron A-grade as well as their folded zincalume replacement sill. I think I'll have to grab that Haynes resto manual to get a little more confidence in the process...

Doc - "If doing a later car you will need to do fabrication and surgery to duplicate the 2 underfloor trays in the floorpans." - the 2 underfloor pans bit didn't gell... could you elaborate?

If anyone's interested, you can check out the specifics at www.photobucket.com - search for bitdemon.

I mean if you are using the UK aftermarket replacement panels sold by Karcraft, Minisport SA, Heritage MG et al.. thse panels are made for UK cars that had no channels in the floor like all Oz minis from 1967 to 1978 do.
If new panels are available here with these channels in, I'm glad to hear it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just for general info:

The Magnum brand floorpan as sold by A-grade has the three drain channels running into an embossed section for the driver's heels to comfortably sit in... reckon I'll add a rubber drain plug just in case of any dramas!

The zincalume sill is a piece of folded zincalume straight out of the brake. It doesn't have any drains embossed along it's length.

Question for all those who have replaced their sills (forgot to ask originally), is the jack reinforcing piece on the outside surface of the outer sill welded to the reinforcing piece that joins the inner sill? Seems like it'd be a bugger of a job to take apart if it is... don't want to go redneck and just cut-off and plate over the jacking point.

Don't ..........you are just asking for trouble....make sure the floor is water proof and keep any underfelt dry especially if heater cores or windows leak

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"Show me the Mini!"