Has anybody fitted a mini123 electronic ignition and if so how do they find it?

Bruizers distributor is dead and the one I have replaced it with has done many amazing things to performance and cooling so I'm looking at the mini 123 with 16 dial in advance settings to get the best from him.

I would like to hear from people using this type not any other.

Steve

whats the mini 123 kit? please explain

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/123DI ... Detail.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/123DI ... Detail.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Josh, PIN4E has one of these fitted and running, I will try and find a thread / link..........

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

I spoke to Graham Russell about these steve, he still thinks the best thing for a mini is the lucas dizzy points set up, there are some other good things out there but he didnt seem to be thrilled with the 123. have a chat to him and see what he thinks, he said its a great thing if ur motor is stock, or factory spec but i know bruiser is a worked one and perhaps this may not be so suitable for him....a more technical explanation is available from him. but yeah, just get ur lucas dizzy recod. willy was there and prolly abosorbed some info also to add to this

Yes I was there.
He said they are mainly bling... and don't offer much of a performance increase.
The curves are all wrong, just like the Pulsar ... surprise surprise

Cheers

I will look at a reco and weight for engine specs

Steve

I'd be keen if somebody could elaborate on what the problem is. Most people keen to 'get the most' out of an ignition system are interested mainly in performance - and for this I'd argue max advance and when it gets there is you're most important factor. From memory this has something like 4 different curves for each of 4 total advance figures? I'd put money on the fact one of those will get you so close you couldn't tell the difference

Also, kinda' weird people talk about getting performance gains from their ignition - the most a perfect system can do is allow your set-up to reach it's potential - it can't magically add HP!

Read the info on the 123 ignition on www.tdcperformance.ca . It does not say it is the best. It was not designed for people like Graham Russel who have the ability to chnage or modify curves. It is better than a lucas or pulsar dissy because you (yes you) can change the curve and max advance to one that better suits your motor. A stock lucas dissy will not have the right curve for a modified motor. Vizard says plenty on this. And there is no way that a points ignition is better than an electronic one. Why cange points when you don't have to.

Well i thinkthe main reason people are looking at these dissy's is mainy because of the FACT that without modification to the advance curve, the "cheap" option of using a pulsar dissy is bad for your car. Proven FACT, look at chong's thread re his engine rebuild. without modification by Graham Russell who has done reserch and development work on the pulsar dissy's they are bad for your car. Simple as that.
So mini68 the reson people are using the lucas is because it is a cheap option, IE already have a dissy and all they have to do is replace the pont and Cap. Not everyone has $300 to spend on buying a new dissy, this is why people use non electronic type. Besides, I myself would rather use a Lucas dissy. It is what came with the car from the factory, so it had to be pretty good.
Before someone fires back with comment on the dissy's being old and flogged out. Think about it, most mini's that we are talking about are clubman's on this board. So the dissy's aren't that old, and only a little older than the Pulsar ones which are maybe 5-10 years younger. Granted alot can happen in 10 years, but if your dissy is flogged out and is loose replace it with a 2nd hand lucas that is in good condition. there are heaps about, I for one have a box full.

/rant

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So how do I change the curve for a lucas dissy at home under the carport or during a session at the local dyno? How much would it cost to get the lucas one modified to better suit my engine and what would be the process to do that?

I know not everyone can afford a 123 or for that matter an Aldon or even electronic conversions but not many people can afford to take there motor down to Graham Russels have him put it on the dyno and then modify your dissy be it lucas pulsar or whatever. My last lucas dissy had an 18* cam so gave 36* at TDC. How much does a rebuild cost me when it ruins my engine?

Sorry for the rant but people need to look at the big picture befrore bagging out a product as bling just because GR said its not perfect for him.

I'm looking at it Vs regraphing a ditributor for the engine spec.

The distributor in Bruizer was cactus and replacing it with a working stock 1100S distributor has done unbelievable things to performance but it still isn't graphed for the motor.

123mini has sixteen advance curves and will find the closest to suit the spec of the motor. I don't want it to improve performance just deliver what the motor is designed to deliver.

Pick up a copy of mini world and look at mini sport add which has motors for sale on it

1410cc "drivability with longevity" 95hp, (everyday car 100 000 miles plus motor)

1430cc "road/ track" 135hp, (young kids to much money little sense 50 000 mile motor)

1430cc "lively spirited performance" 112hp (Not an everyday car weekend fun 60-100 00 mile)

A 123mini distributor would suit all of these being as close as possible otherwise you would have to have a 1275 one graphed for each one.

I'll get back on what regraphing will cost but 123 mini would be similar with greater range of uses if needed.

Steve

I had a chat to GR about these before I purchased mine. He had heard of them, but never used them and didn't know what the advance curves actually were! He told me that he doesn't trust them, because if the electronics fail in a few years, what do you do then. He said that with a points dizzy, carry a few spares (points, condenser, rotor, cap) and if it stops in the middle of nowhere a few minutes later you're on your way again.

So I believe he didn't have any opinion of the performance effects either way.

In regards to performance, the 123 ignition dizzy will let you closely match the ideal curve for your particular engine. With so many variables in engine specification, you may not get the BEST curve, but you will be sure to get far better than lord lucas specified, (you can choose the Cooper S curve, even though it is stated it has always been wrong for the cooper S engine) and MUCH better than an unmodified pulsar curve.

The best ignition curve will always be able to be obtained from a fully programmable electronic ignition set up, which this isn't. But being able to choose from 16 different curves is a bloody good sart without having to mess with modifying the advance stops, and fiddling with springs.

Plus you never have to worry about points again!!

I have the 123 dizzy, and for the small amount I have used the car, it is bloody marvellous! (vibration issues, not dizzy issues, prevent me from using it further ATM)

Highly recommended for anyone who wants to upgrade their dizzy, recieve an easy tuning method with some performance benefit and well, it IS Sexy!



Reliability,
Ease of starting (go for a GT40RT coil with a balast resistor in series.)

What else would you need?

To check out the curves go to http://www.tdcperformance.ca

look at the TUNING GUIDE at the left menu, and bring up the curves. Easy.

Besides Marcel is more than happy to be able to help via email if you have any issues. Tiop Bloke!

Cheers.

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

If you can afford one, buy one.
If you can't addord it rekit your lucas one.
If your engine is out of the car, get it dynoed and get one made for your advance curve.
If your engine is in car and you are having dissy problems, rekit your old dissy.

End of story.

Another alternative is to find a Pulsar one and get it modified for the right advance curve. Seems the best solution in my book, cheap, effective.

Noone is saying 123's aren't good, but for $300 they aren't cheap either. Same goes for Aldon and any other electronic solutions.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K