quick question to see if anyone knows what's wrong with my clutch..

i need to get motivated and get it fixed...

symptoms... when i push the clutch in... it goes to the floor a bit soft and makes a noise like a one of those competition wheels in pokie lounges.. you know.. the vertical wheels of fortune...

and it won't let me put it into gear... it wants to crunch... i know it...

ta

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I've got a tenner it's the thrust bearing. I remember mine was making that noise, the next week it let go. Thankfully only down the road from home.

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You're only supposed to blow WHAT off?

Get you'r Spanners Out Boy....and take that clutch pannel off.....Have a box ready to put all the bolts into.

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Check the whole system from top to toe.

Start with the pedal. Change all the clevis pins, there is one main one for the clutch pedal that wears considerably after years of use. Best to remove your front drivers seat to do this, believe me, it then becomes a 5 min job instead of a 1/2hour job full of cursing! While you're there, might as well change the brake clevis pin too...

Under the bonnet, if it is a pre verto clutch (99.9% sure it is unless it's a late model engine), the actuator arm could be warn esp on the ball side (the bit that sticks into the clutch housing and is held by a huge end bolt). Take the return spring off, undo the nuts, take out the split pins and change all the clevis pins, esp the main one at the bottom. Take out the clutch actuator arm and check that it is straight (consult your Leyland black book). Put everythingback together, bleed your clutch slave cylinder.

After replacing all the clevis pins (some where 2-3mm worn!!! considering they are only 8-10mm in diameter that is heaps!), changing the actuator arm (mine virtually had no end ball and it was about to break off, the arm inself was way out of whack... I am talking 10-15 degrees bent, probably by last owner doing a dodgey on the arm instead of replacing it!) , readjusting and bleeding the system, my car went from floor engaging to 2 cm from the top of the pedal engaging. No changes to the actual clutch housing or components in there! All up i spent around $50 for the parts and it's been good ever since.

The problem is really the wear in the actuator arm, if you do your maths, for every inch of pedal movement, you move the actuator arm only a small fraction of that, don't quote me but it's like something like 4:1. So for every mm of wear in the arm, the pedal movement is reduced by 4mm. Since i had somewhere around 10-15mm wear and warping in the arm, that equates to 40-60mm of pedal movement loss!!! that's heaps for a mini!!!

Consult your Leyland manual and online resources on Mini Clutch Problems. and GOOD LUCK!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Do you drive a Mini Cushy....

the noise it makes is the thrust bearing

the fact it doesnt engage is because.. just read what chong said

you will need to fix both

i had this problem.. but the previous owner fixed the clutch not engaging by adjusting the clutch stop bolt (which pushed the thrust bearing onto the clutch at all times)

the bearing cant handle being pushed up against the clutch at all times.. it dies pretty quickly and makes this noise you speak of about a week before shattering in you clutch housing.

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Expert in training

Yeah I was pretty much referring to the engagement problem not the noise! thanks minivan

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

ok..

the prev.. owner told me he had been adjusting the clutch until couldn't adjust it anymore..

taking the whole. "while i'm at it" approach... is it worth sticking the cooper s clutch kit in there... and then i tackle the clevis myself... (i always thought the clevis was hard to get to i'm glad to see other people are having trouble finding it too )


jam... i'm a mini owner at the moment... not yet a mini driver....

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Ditto....

yes.. but you're restoring... i'm procrastinating..

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