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Which way should the Master cylinders face?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25791		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Wombat [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Which way should the Master cylinders face?
This is how I found the Master Cylinders; I have seen them on other cars with the fillers to the front - what is correct?
Image
Author:  DTrain [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
which ever way fit :?

i bought new master cyliners (plastic) but the only way they would fit is if the clutch master was facing the rear
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Which way do the master cylinders face? Cap up. 8)

Your photo is correct. :wink:
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
What he said...^^^
Author:  Dylans Clubby [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
yeah thats the way mine face, but wouldnt it be easier if they faced the front, and the pipes went down the back?!?!?!
Author:  Wombat [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
I only asked because of these in another tread :? and I'm going to put the same extensions on and thought it would be easier to fill with them at the front

Image
Author:  gafmo [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
The ertemtions are exactly that...If i have this rite they were used during raceing so you had that extra bit of fluid fopr the brakes and clutch. They do also give you that much more when bleeding the brakes and 180 Degres around with the caps to the front make it easier when topping both up
Author:  Mini68 [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Pretty sure they should only go on one way as the clutch and brake master cylinders are different. Something about the brake master having a return spring and the clutch not. Calver has an article on this if I remember correctly. So caps should be at the back pipes at the front.
Author:  Wombat [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Both my cylinders are completely dismantled at the moment and the bodies are identical - so I can reassemble them to suit the orientation. If you do a straight 180 rotation they won't fit - you have to swap the positions as well.
Author:  AEG163job [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:12 am ]
Post subject: 
yep, I reckon that is correct, but I guess a question of how "original" you want your car to look (vs practicality).
I'm pretty sure BMC would have designed it to make the M/c's hard to top up so that the fluid ended up wrecking the paintwork because they never came from the factory with the extensions :twisted:
Author:  DOZ [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:36 am ]
Post subject: 
The brake MC has a non-return valve fitted on top of the internal spring.

The extensions were fitted to Monte rally cars to keep adequate level while pads wore down, I don't think they fitted to clutch MC but could be wrong.

Daniel
Author:  AEG163job [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
I thought the bigger capacity m/c (brake cf. clutch) on the S solved the pad wear problem, but maybe they were introduced on later models :?: Strange that this feature did not carry thru to the OZ Mk 2 with the plastic jobs. Anyone have any clues? :?
Author:  Mike [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
I cant see why you wouldnt be able to turn the cylinders around to have the cap closer to the front - I did that with my brake MC - you just let the brake lines run over and next to the filler caps. . But - and I did ask this in the original post re the extensions - arent the MCs in the second pic (with the extensions) in the wrong places alltogether (ie Brakes instead of Clutch and vise versa) ???
coz I'm pretty sure that if you turn the Mcs around and they are in their orginal positions you'll have the filler caps on the inside and the line outlets on the outside.
Author:  mickmini [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
some m/c are 0.75" bore and some are 0.7" bore. check your manual before swapping anything over and make sure you measure it to have the correct one on the clutch and on the brake. it can make a lot of difference on the pedal effort, and if you stick a brake one on the clutch with the non return valve, your clutch may not engage correctly.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Clutch M/C should be 0.75" bore, a .70" (brake one) doesn't move enough fluid, causing clutch drag and dodgy adjustability.
I know this as I've bought several cars that had em on.... :evil:

Your brake M/C should be 0.70" bore for most everything with twin leading shoe drums, or discs.
If you use a 0.75" pedal effort will be too high- unless running a servo.
Even the Cooper S ran a 0.70".

So, I wouldn't swap `em, for these 2 reasons. :wink:
With the plastic extensions it makes no difference, it's easy to top up.
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