I picked up a 79 moke alomst two months ago and its basiclly been sitting in my garage until a couple of weeks ago. I havent worked on a car anymore than doing basic service's before, but am learning heaps every day that I tinker with the moke. The paint is average, but not a huge concern at the moment, I want it to go first, then look at making it all nice next year. The best part is that it doesn't have any rust, unlike lots of other 79's, I didnt want to have to start going and copping and replacing panels.

So far I've started to get the wireing sorted, the previous owner put a new loom in it as the owner before had chopped and distroyed the origional one. Still need to check all the lights, but everything to make it go is working.

The engine seems fine, got it starting almost first go now, once warm it runs. We fiddled with the carby and cleaned it. I think the timeing out out and needs a tune. Got it running and going through the gears on blocks yesterday.

Yesterday fitted a new clutch slave clyinder, hooked it all up and bled the clutch. Also fitted a second hand but working dual brake master clyinder (thanks marcello). I also picked up a nice small roll bar for when its going and down the beach.

Thought I had almost everything under control but I went to bleed the brakes today, got it all ready, then started pumping the brake pedal only to have fluid start dripping out from the thread of the bleed valve. I tried on another wheel and the same thing happened. So I cant get the fluid to come out my hose and into the jar of fluid.

What do I need to do with the bleed valves to get them to work so I can bleed the brakes properly? I had fluid coming out, but not in the right place.

Does anyone have a checklist of things they will look at when going for rego? What do I need to have and make sure is all in good order?

Cheers

where are you from? People can be a bit more helpfull with stuff like this iff they know what area you're in.

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Introducing 'LITE'. The new way to spell 'light' with 20% less letters!

I don't know my name anymore.

I'm in Melb, when my moke is finshed its going to live down at my beach house for the summers.

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Rogg!!!!!

Okay on the bleed nipples - first off - put a sheet of gladwrap over the top of the master cylinder to stop it dripping and wasting all the brake fluid.

Then - take out all the bleed nipples and poke a fine wire through all the holes to clean the bleed nipples and give each one a blast with compressed air. They are probably just horribly gummed up. Then put them back in and tighten then up.

Now try and bleed the brakes - start with the passenger side rear, then the drivers side rear and then the two front sides.

Remember that brake fluid is fairly viscous so give it time to refill after each pedal pump. Slow steady pumps with a 3 second pause between each pump is heaps more effective thatn frantic fast pumps.

Nip the bleed nipple right up before your assistant lifts off the pedal and you call out when you want the assistant to press down on the pedal - when the pedal is down - then undo the bleed nipple.

Wot Ian said ^^

However, if compressed air isn't available (with eye protection) then you could soak the nipples in solvent or fit new ones (I'm thinking I would buy new ones rather than soak my nipples in solvent )

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"Show me the Mini!"

Sometimes you just need another head. Thanks. Everything I have touched in the moke so far has had either a lot of dirt, clay, or just oil and grime. Should have tried that.

I'll get onto this tonight, possibly be able to drive up the driveway for the first time...

What are the things to look out for when getting rego for my moke?

Does anyone have a good checklist to go over?

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Rogg!!!!!

Getting a first rego for a moke is no different for getting a rego on any other car. But a rule of thumb is that if a car looks pretty good then it probably is. A grotty car attracts the inspectors attention and they will go looking for problems.

But... they are going to check the suspension, brakes, ball joints, steering and the body for critical rust or damage. They will also check seats and their mountings, seat belts and other obvious items.

Basicallly the car has to be right. Not new but right.

Do a good job getting it ready and you will have less angst on inspection but expect a knock back on a few items. Dont take it for an inspection with known faults though.

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Introducing 'LITE'. The new way to spell 'light' with 20% less letters!

I don't know my name anymore.

Cheers adeee, that is exactly what I was looking for and didn't find on the vicroads website.

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Rogg!!!!!

no probs.

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Introducing 'LITE'. The new way to spell 'light' with 20% less letters!

I don't know my name anymore.

Back to the bleed nipples...

One is rounded, still a bit in it. Great. Have let it soak in WD40 and tried carfully. Any tips to removing it?

Where can i get new bleed nipples? What spanner is ment to be used? I saw this on ebay? I havent looked that closely at them.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MINI-MOKE-BRAKE-ADJUSTING-Bleed-Spanner-NEW_W0QQitemZ180065434277QQihZ008QQcategoryZ32072QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Rogg!!!!!

Use locking pliers (vise grips). You can get heaps of purchase. Lock onto the nipple real tight and coax gradually. Also works on brake line unions which won't budge and if you use this method you can avoid "rounding" them in the first place. Alternatively, buy the correct pipe spanners (quality one not cheap ).

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Ill get onto it 2nite.

Are all bleed nipples the same size when I go to buy some replacements?

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Rogg!!!!!

Found an old wasp nest in one of the rear drums when I took the cover off. And a lot of dirt.

But how do I totally remove the rear drums?

There are three bolts that I've undone, taken off the hand brake cable. Also disconnected the hydraulics plumbing. What else?

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Rogg!!!!!

they should now just slide off unless the shoes are touching the drum. give the drum a good few taps with a mallet and it should slide right off. the fronts on mine were bonded good and took a fair bit of wiggling and forcing - however the rears came off with a tap of the mallet, happy days!