Feedback please,

on hydrolastic suspension. I have a clubman and the left side settles really slowly (over a matter of 5 weeks or so), unitl I have to get it pumped again.

Do I ditch it and get cones instead, or try and get it right?

Does anyone else have a droopy left side ?? or any side at all?

Appreciate any help,

Alfie1

First I'd check the valve at back is not leaking.
They are just a Schrader tyre valve.
If leaking, let fluid out by pushing the valve stem in with the valve cap. Then unscrew it out and replace.
You won't get air in the system unless you undo hoses.
Then get it pumped up again.

If not that, look for moisture on the hoses, pipes and the bags.

IMO, hydro is well worth keeping. My 3/70 car is still going strong on original bags (OK it does have `71 Clubby GT front ones in), it's had the fluid changed twice in the last 12 years and the rear valves replaced, that's all.

Worst yours could be really is a leaky bag, but they are pretty easy to change.
And there are still lots of s/h bags about.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

alfie i think i have a spare bag around from when i had hydro (i got rid of it, im not a fan) your more then welcome to take it if you need it. but i think you should cut the pipes under the car. so that the hydro bags arnt linked up. you'll reduce fore and aft pitch and be able to set the car up how you want.

_________________
real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

I am a big fan of the hydro set up, keep the pipes linked tho!!

Find where the fluid is going, thenm replace the valve/bag etc as required. Easy.

To reduce the Fore and Aft movement described before, install comp rear bump stops, and fit shockies to the front. (I believe it is important to have oil filled shocks on the front as you are wanting to damp the movement of the front rising under acceleration!! )

Now you will have much better ride than any rubber suspended mini could dream, with superb handling potential as well. Just ask the Doc!!

_________________
68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

comes down to personal pref. i started out with dry, then had a wet mini, and went back to dry. there isnt anything wrong with wet suspension, either you like it or you dont. i do like it but i pref dry.


i dont know about that matt. im glad your happy with your wet suspension.
weigh up both of them (and i know there's been heaps of posts about this before)
if you have good condition bags, pump them up and your right. want better handling, fit bump stops and front shocks.
the only prob is most bags are all SH and tired. and then you have the leaks or one bag is softer then another etc. becomes a headache.
ifyou have dry suspension, rubber cones cost heaps, but hardly need replacing (either do bags) you can have hi lo's, no mods to fit shocks. the ride isnt harsh, depends on the height of your car. my sisters 850 has dry, at standard height with 3 1/2 inch wide steelies with soft tyres and the ride is great. feels like hydro. where as my mini k is on 12x5's with stiff yoko's and sitting way to low. the ride is really rough but i have great handling thru corners.
they are both good but i personaly think dry is better and easier to look after.
rant over

_________________
real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

We have one car (1360) wet with Pedders front shocks and comp rear bumpstops, the other (1293) is dry, with Hi-Los and Konis all round.
No comparison...
The wet car rides well and handles well, the dry car pitches like a buckboard. And on real big bumps,
Yes it handles, but no better than the wet one.
I'm sorry the PO swapped it to dry.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

my wifes butt sags abit but i can live with it

_________________
busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

i have just changed from wet to dry. it's a fair bit of work. Just changing the bag or the valve is alot easier. you also have the problem when switching from wet to dry that the wet subframes don't have the small mounds where the cones mount.these work as bump stops so i would recomend moding the rear arms for bump stops. you also need dry front arm, dry rear arms, a set of shocks,high lows, 4 rubber cones front shock mounts. you need to remove the tanks to put the rear shocks in. at bend the old hydro bag mounting points bag to locate the rubber cone. and then remove the hydro pipes if you want to. the handling is very similar but i don need a wheel alignment i will post on the improvement or lack or improvement after the wheel alignment

_________________
FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

take it to the hydro guys and get her pumped uop

_________________
-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

For the amount of work & expense involved I would stick with the hydro system.
Find & fix the leak, fit comp rear bump stops & good shoks on the front & it should
handle as well as a dry & ride better

Blue

_________________
Keep shiny side up