hey all
i was board today, had nothing to do, so i thought, work on the mini, i was doing the wiring for the dash when i thought, i might have a go at starting her. the fuel lines were disconected so i got some silicon hose and held it above head height and sprayed instistart down it, turned the engine nothing, tested the spark, nothing. so disconnected the wire from the coil, and made a up a lead going from the pos+ from the starter solinoid and going to the Pos+ on the coil, tried it again, putt putt(engine turning) putt bang........bang, bang bang,vrooooooooooooom the loudest noise, louder than the celica seeing that it was only running exstractors rather than the exhaust with mufflers,

for about 10 minutes i was shaking all over, but a good exsperience none the less,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

U should run ur PP out straight out the pipes. Thats always a great noise!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I lost the muffle off my 13B a number of Times.. love the fames


You want Loud
Also reving up high in first gear and letting go of the Go Peddle makes an intersting sound down Church Street Parramatta, Just make sure thiers no Cops behind you

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

just be careful incase you still don't have the temp gauge connected and you dont know what state your cooling system is in coz its real easy to overheat the engine this way.

On every engine build I've done, the first road test and drive to the exhaust shop has been with no exhaust. Even if I have one available I do the drive first then fit it. It's a tradition I guess.

Not only mini engines but also the V8's and rotaries I've built. Can you imagine a 13B rotary sans mufflers!

Neighbours don't like it, but I don't like them so it evens out.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

hey daniel
you've built rotors, what can you recomend as a good pp set up, could you recomend ceramic seals, i wont it to last round 50k,

reason i ask is everyone on ausrotory is like" aww youse have to go wif the da fully sick tabuli injection, and add a hummus turbo with a taziki front mount",

_________________
any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

I've only used Mazda Parts mainly, I have got HME seals in my series 5 N/A though, mainly because I didn't like the 3 piece seal price .

A PP is not a good choice for the street due to the power band (it's up way too high) and this range is high wear too. You will not get 50K from any PP unless you drive it out of it's power range all the time. A std 12A will last 200k + if it's driven like a taxi, if you constantly drive in the power band of a PP this is about 3 times higher wear alone, add the bigger clearances and you can see where it's going....

Anyway, For a PP I would say a 1 piece seal of Carbon would be my choice. They were used for years in US endurance races without failure. When they chip/crack they don't always cause the damage that the std cast irons ones do either.

Also, if you are going to have a PP make sure you fit a decent EFI set-up, a carby is no good. The inability of the carby to cover the rpm range of this type of rotary leads to slightly leaner mixtures at high rpm. You have to run bigger clearances to accomodate and this means hard starting when the engine is hot from seal leakage.

There are currently Bridgeport engines in IPRA that are more/less a PP in their HP/rpm range anyway, best to talk to Ric Shaw, Bill Nabham, Rohan Ambrose or one of those types of engine builder, not a forum junkie. If it's a turbo then talk to Pete Basmadjn from Simply Maz (I know he sold the business).

Like Graham Russell, most established gurus spend little time on internet forums.

Cheers

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I always thought the primarys on a PP should extend all the way to the rear axle, then lead into a single pipe over the axle with a decent muffler. My mate had a PP originally with short primarys on it, he fitted a much longer set and the difference was amazing. Was like a new car!!!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

im going blown, having it blown means you can drive it at around 4k, im also going ida inj, pp hp on the street is too only show a clubsport whats what, mufflers only last about 200k, cause of the 2 mtr long backfire flames

a brigdy thats as powerfull as a pp,? i was thinking of going a blown baby j,

baby j is good because it has the wear of a bridgey, most of the fuel comsuption levels as a bridgey but has the peak hp somewhere near a j port,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

Sounds a reasonable starting point Hanra,

Primaries on a street ported engine, either extend or mild bridge port are not as sensitive as a PP. They don't seem to drop hp as length is increased so the best option is to run them all the way.

On a PP there is a range, too short and severe fuel stand off occurs, too long and the hp drops.

It depends on the intake system and primary dia for each engine, you would really need to dyno the motor and swap a few lengths around to get the best combo but what you suggest sounds like a reasonable starting point.

What is it with rotars and Minis, I talk about minis on ausrotary and rotars on here

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

its great beacuse you know mini people wont more accelaration and rotor people wont more handleing ability

_________________
any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717