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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 3:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:39 pm
Posts: 1629
Location: Sydney, E. Burbs
I've been to repco today and noticed that apart from the many usual radiator leak stop liquids there are a few that say they treat minor leaks in heads, head gaskets etc. Now with the oil still trickling into my water after the second gasket change and no time for a few weeks to get to the bottom of this I thought I'd give one of them a try.
Any suggestions on what's good and whether I should try them at all - can they cause any damage?

Also whats the usual time period before retorquing the head - 500km or something? And is the procedure - to undo the nuts 1/2 turn in the right order and then set the torque again?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 5:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I wouldn't use the `bars leaks' one with the pellets.
There's one in a dark blue? plastic bottle with powdered glass or similar in suspension- I found that good for a radiator leak. Can't remember the name.

Re the head nuts- undo each one 1/4 turn then tighten it- do in sequence from middle one out- don't undo them all at once... :shock:
Then recheck your valve clearance... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 10:26 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:01 pm
Posts: 1090
Location: Penrith, NSW
Most mechanics LOVE chemiweld.....gotta be careful with it though. But on all accounts it seals up pretty well.

Irontite make some good stuff aswell.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 8:18 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:53 pm
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Location: Townsville Nth QLD
LMAO, yeah gotta be careful with Chemiweld. One of my mates screwed the engine in his ski-boat by using chemiweld on the water jacket.

Only problem was that it seeped through the crack into the bore, and didnt even make the first crank before things made bad noises.

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