Did anyone know that there is a 1/4 inch difference in width between Hydrolastic and Dry Cone frontends. I just found out which may mean project starlet is out of action... Anybody have a solution???

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

what do ya need dry frame ??
if so i think kazjim has a shed full
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

is the dry bigger?? what are you using now?

If you need a frame there are heaps floating around.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Nah guys don't need one, the subframe I have spent 20 hours developing doesn't meet up with the tower bolt holes in the bulk head. One side is out by 1/4" so I can't thread the studs to bolt her in. Which means my new tube spar frame is good for a boat anchor and not much more! That was my question are the towers or bolt holes 1/4" different between a drycone subframe and a hydrolastic? I just don't want to have to start from scratch again. And yes I want dry cone...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Sorry Brad yeah the hydrolastic seems to be 1/4" bigger from bolting point to bolting point one th cone towers.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Ouch that has Got To hurt!

Best of luck sorting it out, hopefully you won't have to redo.

Then again, most of the time the first run doesn't go to plan... at least if you do have to do the 2nd one you can sort out the bugs with the first one. Maybe about quarter of one positive you can take from the situation

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

i know its drastic, but can you source another shell?

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Not sure if this relates...Morris Mini K had no Spacers between the subframe and Firewall...Marcia is dry and has spacers 1/4" at the same points

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Dry subframes fit into a wet shell, and vice versa. Only difference I know are
1. the hydros have bolts, the drys (usually) have studs and nuts-
2. The drys have spacers on top of the towers and the hydros don't.
3. Hydro `automatic' subframes are a different shape around the motor but pickup points are the same as a normal hydro.

<edit> sounds like something may have moved? on your subframe, during fabrication.
Yeah I'm a metal fabricator too- this stuff does happen.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Spacer I have on the floor is 1/4" +- from a Dry Set up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Dr Mini et al, I think there maybe a solution somewhere here concerning spacers. Just went out to look at the hydro frame sitting in the shed compared to the other dry frame that I have. The thread holes are indeed shifted towards the centre of the frame in the dry one compared to the hydro. I think this should be enough to solve the problem.

So when you mean spacers so you mean the plates inside the cone towers with the thread for the studs/bolts and if so how do I replace them with the dry cone type. Otherwise it's me sitting at the end of a bar alone looking through the bottom of my glass!

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

1/4 Out Width as per the East West ... Hight of the Sub frame relative to the Shell.
Are you saying the tower point (where spacers are on Dry Sub frames andno spacers are on Wet ) are different hights or regarding to the centre of the frame and shell

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Minstar,
I'm just talking about the 2 oval packers with 3 holes that you fit over the studs, one each side. If you don't fit them on a dry subby, you have daylight under the crossmember... eh Gafmo...

As far as I know, the body shells are identical in that area- during the mid `60s they made dry (850 & van) and wet (Deluxe & Cooper S) side by side down the line.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Staying with orginals just clean them Up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I'll try and explain. You have the cone towers ok, now you have the three holes in the top with threaded holes either side of the middle. Now i made a comparison between the hydro frame that just came out of the car and the dry cone one that I have spare. On the hydro the threaded holes are dead centre in the cone holes whereas the threaded holes in the dry cone are shifted to the left and right so outwards from the centre which makes sense as this would put them in line with the holes in the bulkhead for lining up. I'll try and take some photos tonight and hopefully this will give a better indication.

Cheers

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au