Quick question that will no doubt be followed by many more, can I remove a remote gearboxed engine from my mini without dropping out the hydro subframes and taking the
remote housing off?

And for those of you who wish to respond with the words 'topic' and 'covered' in
the same sentence I'll have you know I'm too lazy to look.

Thanks.

the remote Houseing..the box from the Gear box will have to be removed....four bolts only from the box and three at the gear stick end
other than that you can remore the engine without touching the subframe

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

yes you can, it will lift out of the top just need to get the angle of the dangle right is all

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Alright, I know what what may or may not need doing now.
This is a may or may not happen type of thing.
Thanks guys.

Its easier than a rod change..you don't have that pin

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I hate that pin!

Just undo the 4 at front, leave the back end of remote attached to car, rubber mount, boot and all. Put a brick or wood under remote at front to take strain off rear mount.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Silly question I know, but to remove the bottom of the housing should I drain the oil first?

NO, there's no oil back there.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well that makes life a LOT easier on the topic.
Thanks.

dr mini any tips for reconnecting the remote?
when i try seems like the linkages arent lining up properly so it wont sit right

Put box in neutral
Put gearlever vertical
Undo the steady bar bolt(s)
Push remote up
Use a Philips screwdriver in one bolthole to align it
Once one bolt in the rest are easy.
Refit steady bar(s) again.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Wilo, it is much easier if you have a 2nd pair of hand to move the gearstick will you pop the remote on. Girlfriends, Mum's or boyfriends are very handy for such things.
As Kev said do up the remote first, then do up the top steady bars. You will have more leverage to get the remote on. Top bars can be put back in. If those holes don't line up, up a pry bar (with a bit of rag rapped around it so as not to chip your paint) to the back against the firewall and engine to pull the engine forward until the hole lines up with the bolt. Again an extra pair of hands makes this job easy.

Cheers
Aaron

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I have recently fized my remote gear shift so its nice and tight now (put a spring in it)
I had to change the remote housing and had a bugger of a job lining up the linkages also..I removed the gear stick and the housing (Linkages) just went straight on then just put the gear stick back on.

May help

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It