Hi all,
I rarely post in Ausmini unless I am stuck, and well.... this time I am stuck!
OK, I have just put a different motor into my 66 Deluxe. The original motor had terrible oil pressure, and bad rings... real bad rings.
I inherited a 73 Clubman over the river to use as parts. Unfortunately, the gearbox is rod change, and I had remote. My gearbox was shagged also, so there was no point putting it back in.
The problem I have is now I have put CV driveshafts in the car, they seem to make contact with the lower control arm if the car lifts too high on take off. I have let out some of the hydro to lower the ride height to avoid this. Reason being the clubby it all came out of has dry subframes. Now the question I have is are the driveshafts different for dry subframe cars as to hydro? I had to make a bracket to support the gearshift as obviously remote change is different. But I would like to get on top of this, the last thing I need is broken driveshafts.
Ideas anyone?

Hi...easy to be wise in hindsight...but I can't work out why you didn't just drop the new engine on top of your existing drive train (after fixing it up)....thats what you should be doing now.

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"Show me the Mini!"

The engine and transmission are both stuffed.
all bearing noise in the gearbox, and the motor was very low on compressions. Thats why I did it, and if i had another car with remote change, i would have dropped it in.
I need my car running, so this is why for now I have this stupid rod change setup on the car. Lynda's car is fine with it, I just want my car the way it was. Plus I am not a huge fan for uni joints.

Ha! thats cool, good comeback. I don't want a heated discussion. I just want to know what is different in the front end between the two cars.
The mini is the ONLY vehicle that can drive a grown man insane seriously...
It took me 2 weeks of replacing, swapping, painting and fixing my bloody car. It wasn't til the road test I found these little issues.

The difference between the two cars is the cars with inner Pot joints have a bigger hole in the subframe than the cars with uni joints.
It is not a Hydro suspension vs Rubber suspension problem, it is a Pot vs Uni problem.

Right that makes sense. Thanks... So the choice I have is... replace the subframes, or, go through all the crap of putting uni joints back into it.... grrr
Cheers for the resonse though. Never know til you ask.

I think the solution may be quite simple and at the other end of the car. You may find that if you fit competition bump stops to the rear end it may stop the nose lifting under acceleration.

Very True and a much cheaper and 1/2 hour worth of effort...Cheap and see how bad your bumper stops are at present. I fthey do look even the remotist bit work get some somp rear bumper stops..they do work well

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

ok so what you are saying gives me the impression that the bump stops are in contact every time you take off? I don't fully understand the whole hydro system, but is it just as easy to put the rubber cones into the car? I know it is a rougher ride, but I have been told I can put them in, eliminating the hydro but no need to remove the subframes?
What are these bump stops worth?

Next question I have too is are the remote gearboxes also built with the capability of CV's? I have not been on the mini scene for long, so the few that I have seen have all had uni joints. If this is possible, I can arrange a changeover gearbox and yeah exactly that, plonk the donk straight on top.

The competition bump stop will be in contact all the time, they are just a rubber spring that fits between the trailing arm and the body. You current bump stops to not touch till you hit a bump.

Keep the Hydro and add the bump stops.


About $70.

Before you decide on anything wait till the doc posts.

the bumper stops are on top of the rear radius arm and the orginal one's were the shape of a Donute...you will understand if you see it..Comp one are more solid Rubber and more tude shaped...if you don't get a picture by tomorrow Moring I'll get ya a picture as I have to change a wheel over tomorrow anyway (If the Camera Wants to work)

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Right, got you thanks.
One expense after another the mini isn't it.....

I think they were around $80 around 2 years ago..can't have gone up by much since then....if it fixes it..bet than the expence and time of the rest. See if any one has a set you can try firt maybe

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I disagree. Barney has a 66 hydro subby with late model pots and driveshafts. Only grief it causes is when fitting driveshafts the pots won't pass thru the holes. BUT the CVs do, so no prob.
He says it hits the lower control arm.. hmmm, the original 850 had straight pivot bolts there, not cranked ones. Might he have the wrong ones fitted?

<edit> could also be the rebound stops under the top arms have gone, allowing more lift. But the shafts still should clear the pivot bolts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.