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fitting spaced drums....
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26820		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  harvey69 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:38 am ]
Post subject:  fitting spaced drums....
ok boys and girls

today i decide to fit some spacered drums that i picked up yesterday....

have taken the drum off and thats as far as i can get....

i am not sure what the next step is or how to go about it....

i know i have to remove the HUB to fit the longer wheel studs but am not sure how to remove it....or what to do and not to do......

comments greatly appreciated
cheers....

tait
Author:  supercharged 850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:54 am ]
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I'm assuming you have the right socket for the drive shaft nut???

Its easiest to put the drum and wheel back on first.

But remove the split pin from the nut before doing that.

Sit the car back on the ground so that it holds the wheel for ya (or else it will just spin when you try to undo the nut).

Undo the nut with the socket on an extension bar. It shouldnt be TOO hard to undo. Dont forget that one side of the car has a reverse thread (although, I think it is only on one corner of the car, not 2)

Once the nut is off, jack the car back up, remove the wheel and drum, then remove the flange with a bearing puller. (Somebody might correct me here, but I definitely needed a bearing puller on all of mine).

Removing the studs can be done by pressing them out in a vice (put a large socket behind the back of the stud and press it thru into the socket)

Fitting the new studs can be done by using the same technique with the socket over the threaded side..
Author:  Lillee [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Yes bearing remover or a slide hammer to get the whole hub off
Author:  harvey69 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
i forgot to mention that its for the rear wheels only......

if that makes any difference
Author:  supercharged 850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:10 am ]
Post subject: 
Ah...... the rears are easy. No need to keep the wheels and drums on to undo the nut as the shaft is fixed.
Author:  harvey69 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:19 am ]
Post subject: 
Image

just took the split pin out......

on the right track? ? ?
Author:  supercharged 850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Yep.

Undo the nuts by turning them in the opposite direction that the wheel would normally spin. Your passenger side one would be the reverse thread...

(although, now I think about it, it might only be the case on the front wheels....) Bugger. Cant remember.
Author:  sports850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Yes , split pin out then undo the castleated nut and the washer , then slide the hub off carefully , if it's tight and difficult to move then make sure the car is supported strongly on good stands , put the wheel back on and use it for more leverage to pull it off , unless you've got a slide hammer which will make it easier again ...
Author:  miniboy1962 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Yep, On the right track. Now you need a 15/16 Socket to take off the castelated nut. Once that is off, take the washer off the shaft. This is in between the nut and the bearing. Once those are off you can use a bearing puller to take the hub off.
Author:  miniboy1962 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:32 am ]
Post subject: 
beat me to it... :P
Author:  Harley [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:37 am ]
Post subject: 
The left hand thread is on the rear passengers corner only.
Otherwise there would be 2 different types of CV and nut.
It would then be possible for them to be installed on the wrong side of the car.
:D
Author:  supercharged 850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Harley wrote:
Otherwise there would be 2 different types of CV and nut.
It would then be possible for them to be installed on the wrong side of the car.
:D


Im suprised they didnt do it that way.... everything else seems to be different sizes... (driveshaft lengths, auto/manual subframes, etc etc).... its a very BMC thing to do, you know :lol:
Author:  Lillee [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:50 am ]
Post subject: 
How do you propose to take the nut off if it's fully torqued? When you lever on the nut to undo it the wheel hub will just turn around. My suggestion is to put the brake drum back on, get someone to step on the brake or put the handbrake on and then lever on the nut to undo it. Tip: use a breaker bar of some sort or a soft mallet and bang the ratchet handle (whereby using impact to get the nut loose).

When using a slide hammer the inner bearing race most likely will get stuck to the driveshaft and the outer bearing shell along with the balls will pop off. Just don't lose anything, put a clean piece of newspaper under the whole axle to catch anything that falls. If this is the case you will need a bearing puller or you can get inventive to lever the inner race off the driveshaft such as using a big open ended spanner...
Author:  supercharged 850 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Lillee wrote:
How do you propose to take the nut off if it's fully torqued? When you lever on the nut to undo it the wheel hub will just turn around.


The rear shafts are fixed. They wont spin.


Lillee wrote:
When using a slide hammer the inner bearing race most likely will get stuck to the driveshaft and the outer bearing shell along with the balls will pop off. Just don't lose anything, put a clean piece of newspaper under the whole axle to catch anything that falls. If this is the case you will need a bearing puller or you can get inventive to lever the inner race off the driveshaft such as using a big open ended spanner...


Yeah, a bearing puller will ease the flange and bearings off in one piece.
Author:  miniboy1962 [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:55 am ]
Post subject: 
If its on the rear, the thread is pressed into the radius arm, it should be a tight enough fit to undo the nut.
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