OK,

So I know the block and "motor' bits are useable, but is the rest of the gearbox, etc going to be usable for anything?

What is salvageable from these units?

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Gearbox is different. The mounting for the remote extension is different, the diff ratio is way out and the output shafts are slightly different (on a Morris 1300 at least, not sure about 1100S). But you can still use the gearbox if your keen it bolts to the engine just the same.

Yes very usable

I have used an 1100S motor and box but have just changed the diff ratio to suit 10s and taken the 1100 diff housing off and used one from an 850 also added pot joints for the Austin super deluxe and it is superb extremely usable.





Steve

Can you use a mini diff housing? I thought that the two pieces were machined together and couldn't be changed from one unit to the next?

Worth getting all of it then, I reckon!

Cheers

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

The diff housings are not supposed to be changed because they are matched. However, if you have the time to burn I see no problem putting a non-matched housing on if you are prepared to rip it all out again if something goes wrong.

You can still use the Morris 1100S diff housing but you will need the remote extension to match, and then you may have to fiddle with the mounts because I think the rear mount is different?

I've done it as Steve.E suggests. If I had my chance to do it again - I'd do it just the same. Never driven a better gearbox. With the 3.44 clubbie diff and an 850 remote housing and trumpet - brillent.

All i know is that my 1360 is originally a 1100 S block.....

great engines IMO

Bolt them together and see if the bores are misaligned, and also measure with a micrometer or telescopic gauges to see if they are oval. Use the bearing diameter as a reference.
Often using extra or NO top & bottom gaskets will fix ovality.
If using NONE, assemble with Loctite 515 or 518 Master Gasket.

The misalignment can often be cured by leaving the 2 dowels out- once assembled on the bearings these really do nothing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is a couple of other things that need to be addressed. The engine plate under the cam and crank pulley is different. It has two wings that act as engine mounts. Either trim those with an surgical instrument (a angle grinder works fine here) or change it for a mini one.

While you doing that - throw in a new timing belt and timing case seal - if you decide to go duplex dont forget you need countersunk allen key bolts.

A mini is a whole lot lighter than an 1100 and the motor will go a whole lot harder so the 3.4 diff is a good idea - although the 1100s in its native form flies it gets noisy at higher revs.

Whilst the whole thing can be put straight in a mini, I personally would put the 1100s motor on top of the current mini gearbox (be it rod or remote) with a new clutch and clutch oil seal.

Forget about brakes - thats not a bolt up item - some bits are useable but it doesn't just bolt up.

Matt, if you dont want the gearbox I will take it, good for spares.

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Steve

The 1100S already has the duplex timing chain as standard - another bonus! If you change the plate for a mini one [good suggestion], you will need to countersink them.

Cheers Guys,

Looks like I have just scored myself three 1100s 1275 motors, 2 on gearboxes and 1 bare long motor.

Plus a few other spare bits and pieces, twin carbs etc. It'll take me a few months but once sorted, I will let Ausmini know first of any available extras!!

Cheers

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Whats the diff ratio on an 1100 s or similar?