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Hydro fluid substitutes https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27030 |
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Author: | AEG163job [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:40 am ] |
Post subject: | Hydro fluid substitutes |
Fellow Hydro fans - having recently being involved with Ken's Elf (rego rejection), I am curious to learn if anyone has considered/tried/experimented with an alternative fluid in hydrolastic cars eg ATF, silicon etc. The reason for this strange request is that the quality (IMO) of current hydrolastic seems to me more like low quality crap antifreeze (read lime cordial) and of lower viscosity/quality to the original factory fluid. Apart from the huge task of removing the displacers to drain out all the old rusty crap, can anyone forsee any drama in using e.g. dextron as a replacement as I reckon it would be more corrosion resistant and probably never need replacing. Good thinking or just plain dumb ![]() ![]() |
Author: | miniobsessed [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:47 am ] |
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Forgive my ignorance... but I'm sure I read somewhere that hydro fluid is just a mix of water and antifreeze... |
Author: | AEG163job [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:00 am ] |
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perfectly correct- but we all know there's antifreeze & antifreeze ie some more protective than others. I was just surmizing - no water, no rust/corrosion possible in the pipes, displacers etc. |
Author: | Matt68 [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Step 1) Buy 100% Ethylene Glycol (not just antifreeze from big W) You can actually buy a tectalloy brand one that is 1180g/litre Ethylene Glycol, (99.8%, plus bittering agent) Step 2) Buy Distilled Water (Demineralised, NOT 'spring' water!! ![]() Decide on the ratio, more Ethylene Glycol = more viscous. I run a 50 / 50 mix and it works well. Some racers use 100% ethylene glycol with good results! Don't mess with oils etc, unless you really know what you are doing is MHO! Cheers Matt |
Author: | sports850 [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Wasn't there a lubricant of some type in the mix as well ? An ex dealer's son I know used to reckon the first ones released in OZ with hydro would make a sort of squeak/swoosh noise on bumps so a lubricant of some form was added ???? What I do know though is be carefull with it , it burns like hell when you get sprayed in the eyes with it . |
Author: | AEG163job [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
OK, thanks Matt. I guess using "straight" EG would make the ride firmer due to higher viscosity, would that be correct? I am guessing the hydro fluid (HYL 3848) sold by our friends in the trade is OK for 1100's, deluxes etc but too watery for Coopers fitted with the stiffer displacers ![]() |
Author: | AEG163job [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:20 pm ] |
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yes Ian, the original fluid sure was pretty evil gooey stuff. Maybe the new fluid is intended to be more 'environmentally friendly' ![]() |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:27 pm ] |
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Somebody on here (M1100?) posted the original recipe for hydro fluid a while ago. I know it had water and alcohol and a bittering agent in it, I can't recall the %. Watch it putting oil or ATF in, you will probably rot the rubber..... I hear from US Mini people that 50/50 water and glycol works OK. ![]() I've used Karcraft's hydrolastic fluid for the last 12 years, never had a problem. |
Author: | Mick [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Quite a few guys advertise that they are using the original fluid (I can't believe that it's still available, I reckon some may be simply filling up the can with their own brew myself) whe n they are repairing the hydros. What's the quality of this stuff like? |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Mick wrote: Quite a few guys advertise that they are using the original fluid (I can't believe that it's still available, I reckon some may be simply filling up the can with their own brew myself) whe n they are repairing the hydros. What's the quality of this stuff like?
I reckon it smells and looks like what I used 25 years ago, I've gone thru 8 litres in 12 years on various cars, and no problem. It didn't rust the steel tin out, so must be good! ![]() |
Author: | simon k [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:26 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Somebody on here (M1100?) posted the original recipe for hydro fluid a while ago. I know it had water and alcohol and a bittering agent in it, I can't recall the %. that was me... it was published in the vic club's magazine and I typed it out me wrote: I dug up an old vic mini club magazine which has the official and original BMC recipe. 49% alcohol, 49% distilled water, 1% triethanolamine phosphate and 1% sodium mercaptobenzthiazole...
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1875&highlight=alcohol I use 50/50 Castrol 95% Glycol antifreeze and tap water - comes out the same colour it went in ![]() get drunk and say this "mercaptobenzthiazole", actually, say it when you're sober |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I would have thought all the alcohol would diffuse thru the hoses etc in time... ![]() maybe that's why when you drain an old one it's er... rusty looking. ![]() |
Author: | sports850 [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: I would have thought all the alcohol would diffuse thru the hoses etc in time...
![]() maybe that's why when you drain an old one it's er... rusty looking. ![]() I guess that poses another question , is there a useby date for hydro fluid in a car , should it be drained and replaced (well , 80% replaced anyway without removing everything to get it all out) every 10 years or so ? |
Author: | Wombat [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:39 pm ] |
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The triethanolamine is the lubricant and the sodium mercaptobenzthiazole is a bug inhibitor to stop nasties growing |
Author: | Matt68 [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:52 pm ] |
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skssgn wrote: ...I use 50/50 Castrol 95% Glycol antifreeze and tap water
Better to use distilled water, tap water has all sorts of ions in it to start promoting oxidisation (rust) inside your hydro system. Ethylene glycol IS a corrosion inhibitor but why tempt fate? ![]() |
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