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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:15 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
Im switching to an alt, i have a 60 watt holden one but no adj bracket, and a 15AC from an early 70s mini.

From what ive read the 15ac is an externally regulated alternator. Can i just hook it straight up to the regulator from my generator??

Or do i still follow these moves http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/ ... ticleV.cfm

Also in the case of those instructions, it says "take wire of a certain colour from D and plug up to F". Well i have 2 wires on D and the colour of the wires has long since faded. One is a big connector the other is smaller. Which one or both gets plugged to F?

(id rather use the 15AC for now because it isnt so large and fits my adjuster bracket)

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:46 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
i have found some info to say that the regulator is not the same, so i think ill try source a bracket for the 60A one instead.

There is no reason for me to worry about my wires going up in smoke with the higher output is there?

does anyone know what size fanbelt to use on a 60A holden bosch alt (or was it ford)?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:00 pm 
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Regulators for the old Lucas 15AC are a bit scarce now, a Jag one looks the same but pinout is different.
Later 15ACR and 16ACR etc are more reliable in my experience.
No worries with the main wiring by using a 60A alt, but fit a heavy gauge wire from the alternator output stud to the battery cable on the starter solenoid.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:13 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
drmini in aust wrote:
Regulators for the old Lucas 15AC are a bit scarce now, a Jag one looks the same but pinout is different.
Later 15ACR and 16ACR etc are more reliable in my experience.
No worries with the main wiring by using a 60A alt, but fit a heavy gauge wire from the alternator output stud to the battery cable on the starter solenoid.


My dad scored one off eBay for me a year ago for not much. They are hard to find but I don't think that when you find one it's gonna be worth too much. Your better off going for a 16ACR, or like me put a foreign one on it. (you said you have a Holden one) I put a N15 Pulsar one on mine, it's rated at 70amps, looks nice and fitted with a bit of grinding and a new pulley made up.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:44 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
Ive rewired the regulator box wires as suggested.

Now im just in need of some pictorial confirmation before i wire up the alternator. There are heaps of info about where to connect what wires to on here, but they all seem to be talking about different terminal names to mine.


Mine has 3 terminals which i have marked on my image: D+ D- and B+
Image

Now in regards to plugging in the old generator wires, i gather i plug the 'thick' one up to B+
The small one goes to D+. Is this correct?

Then from the alternator, i gather i run a thick wire from B+ straight to the starter motor, and that should be it.

Is there no need to hook up a negative wire??


Look forward to your helpful replies :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 4:34 pm 
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1275cc
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B+ is for battery, so thick wire is correct (for your juicy 60 amps). I believe this is connected to the battery cable terminal on your solenoid, not the starter motor.

From memory, the two thin wires are brown/yellow tracer for the no-charge warning light (IND terminal) and brown/green tracer (Field terminal) on the std 15AC.

No need for negative connection as the mounting bracket is earthed (unless you have no earth strap from the body to the engine - where its bolted to the clutch housing) :oops:

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 4:48 pm 
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998cc
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Location: ASQUITH NSW, Engine size:1310
do you really need a regulator, dont have one but then again my altinator didnt work

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 4:53 pm 
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So you now have a mouse-wheel under the bonnet? :P

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 4:57 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
well now im completely confused. I thought the starter solenoid on the earlier cars was in the regulator box (the thing ive completely disconnected)

There is only 1 wire coming to my starter motor (that big black wire that comes from the starter button.

Are you saying i have to run a wire all the way under my car back to this button?

Im using just a standard lucas starter


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 5:16 pm 
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1275cc
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Sorry mate, I didn't realize we were dealing with an orig 850 with floor starter. Connecting the alternator output to the starter is NFG because there is only continuity to the battery when the starter button is pushed.

Is the original regulator still in situ?

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 5:25 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
yea the regulator is still there, but ive disconnected and connected together the wires in the suggested order.

I understand what you're saying about connecting direct to the starter.

I do have a gemini alt, but i dont want to use it at the moment.

In theory i should just be able to hook the two original generator wires back up to it, except they will either melt with the excessive draw of current from the battery or just drop the excess. eitherway i dont want to try that.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:14 pm 
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deleted wrote:
yea the regulator is still there, but ive disconnected and connected together the wires in the suggested order.

I understand what you're saying about connecting direct to the starter.

I do have a gemini alt, but i dont want to use it at the moment.

In theory i should just be able to hook the two original generator wires back up to it, except they will either melt with the excessive draw of current from the battery or just drop the excess. eitherway i dont want to try that.

I would run a heavy gauge output wire back to the battery stud on the 850 starter button.
The brown/yellow wire goes to up the indicator light, the brown/green wire is not used on any alternator, except the old 15AC.
You may need a switched 12V supply to the other terminal, on a Bosch particularly. Run it from the fuseholder that is fed from ignition.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:27 pm 
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1275cc
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The thick brown wire originally connected to "A" on the old regulator is connected to the battery via the starter switch, according to the factory manual, so you could connect the alternator output to this wire if you are not inclined to run a separate wire, but the good doctor's suggestion is preferable (less joins, less resistance= less voltage drop). :)

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:40 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North East melb
ok settled
its just that i stuffed my back somehow the otherweek so i cant get under the car too eagerly.

Anyhow. in theory could you just run that 1 wire to the starter button switch and not worry about any other connections (charge light). Would that not work?

Im wondering why i went to elaborate lengths to join all the regulator wires together. hmm.

Thanks for the help guys!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:08 pm 
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You need to find the brown/yellow charge light wire and run it to alternator, likewise the other connection. The alternator needs these to charge properly.
Some alternators will NOT charge if the indicator light is blown.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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