As it says... How much is a 1100 crank worth? Maximum price for a standard one.

Mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

I paid $75 for a big journal 1275 crank. It was standard journals but had slight scoring. It polished up without grinding undersize.

I would assume that something similar applies to a good second hand 1100 crank.

New is an entirely different ball game and probably depends on how badly others want it.

When I say 1100 I mean for a small bore engine.. As in 1100 cc not a 1100 1275 engine

mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

I sold mine (1098) for $50.
You want one that will clean up with regrind at -.010" or -.020".

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What about this one Dr Mini?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-1100-Cranks ... dZViewItem

Mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

ask him what size the mains and big ends are now.

If you buy, make sale subject to a crack test. These are old cranks....

BTW the dude who was asked Q and was talking about the 997 crank longer? stroke is full of it, they are 0.096" less stroke than an 1100 is.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Will ask him now ... So if I win the bid and then hes sends me te crank who do I send the crank too to get it crack tested?

Mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

Yeah - I realised it was for a small bore - just making a comment on relative values. Sorry if it didn't seem that way.

i sold one a while ago for $70

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@#$%Things are not what they used to be
Missing one inside of me
Deadly loss, this can't be real
Cannot stand this hell I feel
Emptiness is filling me
To the point of agony
Growing darkness taking dawn.

Look, there is an easy way to get an idea of if a crank is cracked - its not fool proof but.... its a good guide.

Simply suspend it with a bit of string etc. Something so its not "earthed" so to speak.

Then give one end a tap with a small hammer. If you get a long "ring" sound then its okay. If you get a dull tink sound then its cracked.

Try it or ask others !

You can stand it on its nose and tink the webs with a spanner. Good indication.
Not foolproof though, Chong got caught with one.... was cracked at centre main and still rang nice.

Magnaflux or black light fluorescent dye test is best, but `dyecheck' is cheaper, and works.

Best get your crank grinder to check it before grinding. This applies to any crank, but 998 ones are less likely to be bad.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ding test is bogus! beware!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Actually the ding test DOES serve a good purpose. If it's dull, don't bother proceeding, and you've saved yourself some dosh. If it rings true, get it tested properly.

You got a point there. But my point is that mine dinged nicely all the way up and down the whole crank but there was still a HUGE crack on the center main (where they are prone to cracking).

I think the ding test will only work if the crak is on the counterweight/blade of the crank? who knows...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

What's it actually called?
I've heard of it referred to as a " tong test"
Whoever is talking to GR or Spiro next - ask them willya!!
KB