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How much to pay for a 1100 crank? 1100cc crank
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27350
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Author:  Mini Mike [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:11 pm ]
Post subject:  How much to pay for a 1100 crank? 1100cc crank

As it says... How much is a 1100 crank worth? Maximum price for a standard one.

Mike

Author:  Mike_Byron [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:19 pm ]
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I paid $75 for a big journal 1275 crank. It was standard journals but had slight scoring. It polished up without grinding undersize.

I would assume that something similar applies to a good second hand 1100 crank.

New is an entirely different ball game and probably depends on how badly others want it.

Author:  Mini Mike [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:35 pm ]
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When I say 1100 I mean for a small bore engine.. As in 1100 cc not a 1100 1275 engine

mike

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:49 pm ]
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I sold mine (1098) for $50.
You want one that will clean up with regrind at -.010" or -.020".

Author:  Mini Mike [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:57 pm ]
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What about this one Dr Mini?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-1100-Cranks ... dZViewItem

Mike

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:22 pm ]
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ask him what size the mains and big ends are now. :wink:

If you buy, make sale subject to a crack test. These are old cranks....

BTW the dude who was asked Q and was talking about the 997 crank longer? stroke is full of it, they are 0.096" less stroke than an 1100 is. :lol:

Author:  Mini Mike [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:53 pm ]
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Will ask him now ... So if I win the bid and then hes sends me te crank who do I send the crank too to get it crack tested?

Mike

Author:  Mike_Byron [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:55 pm ]
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Yeah - I realised it was for a small bore - just making a comment on relative values. Sorry if it didn't seem that way.

Author:  MRClubby1098 [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:02 pm ]
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i sold one a while ago for $70 8)

Author:  Mike_Byron [ Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:11 pm ]
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Look, there is an easy way to get an idea of if a crank is cracked - its not fool proof but.... its a good guide.

Simply suspend it with a bit of string etc. Something so its not "earthed" so to speak.

Then give one end a tap with a small hammer. If you get a long "ring" sound then its okay. If you get a dull tink sound then its cracked.

Try it or ask others !

Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 6:06 am ]
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You can stand it on its nose and tink the webs with a spanner. Good indication.
Not foolproof though, Chong got caught with one.... was cracked at centre main and still rang nice. :lol:

Magnaflux or black light fluorescent dye test is best, but `dyecheck' is cheaper, and works. :wink:

Best get your crank grinder to check it before grinding. This applies to any crank, but 998 ones are less likely to be bad.

Author:  Lillee [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:41 am ]
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Ding test is bogus! beware!

Author:  smac [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:15 am ]
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Actually the ding test DOES serve a good purpose. If it's dull, don't bother proceeding, and you've saved yourself some dosh. If it rings true, get it tested properly.

Author:  Lillee [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:21 am ]
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You got a point there. But my point is that mine dinged nicely all the way up and down the whole crank but there was still a HUGE crack on the center main (where they are prone to cracking).

I think the ding test will only work if the crak is on the counterweight/blade of the crank? who knows...

Author:  1310/71 [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:00 pm ]
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What's it actually called?
I've heard of it referred to as a " tong test"
Whoever is talking to GR or Spiro next - ask them willya!! :D
KB

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