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dead engine - what to do?
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Author:  hbr [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:29 am ]
Post subject:  dead engine - what to do?

I'll pose the question to you knowledgeable folk.

My 1360 engine needs to be rebuilt - it started blowing smoke, had increased blow by and finally spat the primary seal at 110kph.

Should I have it rebuilt and bored to 1380?
Get another engine? ready to go or to rebuild?

Any other suggestions which include using an a-series 1275 (or larger) engine?

Keep in mind my intention is to have a reliable daily driver which I can use to dabble in hill climbs and possibly some circuit racing.

Author:  Steve.E [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:50 am ]
Post subject: 

Hill climbs, some circuit racing and reliable daily driver :lol:

Question, how long did the last motor survive from the last rebuild or when you purchased it?

Steve

Author:  Mike_Byron [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:43 pm ]
Post subject: 

Did you drive it til it stopped or was rattling so badly ??????

A good engine reconditioner can tell you what needs to be done and what can be done.

He is only interested in the engine once its out of the car though although it doesn't have to be stripped down, they will clean it and stripped it down assessing it as they go.

Author:  Convertible Mini [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Bigger engine.

I can sell you a 1275 Block that is Bored out and fitted with Mazda Pistonns on S Rods modified to suit the stroker Crank that it comes with. This donk is 1485cc. All fresh never assembled. I was meant as a spare for My Speedway racing. $1600.
so you get Block Pistons rods and rings Bearings and stroker crank. And heaps of torque.
Tony.

Author:  hbr [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

Steve.E wrote:
Hill climbs, some circuit racing and reliable daily driver :lol:

Question, how long did the last motor survive from the last rebuild or when you purchased it?

Steve


The last rebuild was 2.5 years ago - but I didn't drive it more than ~5k km in that time. - When it was rebuilt it it was honed rather than bored. IT also had a replacement 12g940 added, with hardened valve seats no other work was done to the head apart from stitching a crack. The gearbox was not touched.

Since then the twin hs2's have been rebuilt and pertronix ignitor added.

Mike_Byron wrote:
Did you drive it til it stopped or was rattling so badly ??????


The rattling became really bad as the oil covered the clutch :lol: Still managed 200km's before I needed to get towed. :roll:

Tony, how streetable would the 1485cc be?

Author:  NAV [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

If your engine is already 1360 i persinally would go get some sleeves thrown on the block to take it back to 1275 and start again. And you won't have to get another block if you score the bores at 1380
It's expensive but you don't need to get your bores offest and you get another couple of overbores again as the engine wears out.... again.


But thats just me. the good ol 1275's are getting thin on the ground.

Author:  Steve.E [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 4:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Honestly..................

! Reliability !

You anwsered you own question really.

Spend big dollars if paying someone else to do it, up to $6000 and after hill climbs, circuit racing and daily driving you can spend another 6 to do it all again in a couple of years.

plus spend endlessly replacing every other part that will wear out again and again and again.

A good rebuild should last a long time if the car is driven with respect possibly replacing the rings in ten or fifteen years or longer if the motor is bedded in properly then run in carefuly or if the new motor is run in as suggested by many here you will be replacing the rings in five years.

Then again if raced and rallied and driven every day it might last 2-5 before rebuild time again.

hope you have deep pockets, a best mate who is a mechanic and who really likes you and a second car your wife or partner or parents don't mind lending you when your mini is being worked on.

If you want a car for motor sport buy a $200 crap box you can drive to death continually throwing $200 sencond hand motors into and build a mildly modified road car for everyday.

Steve

Author:  hbr [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

I did say "dabble" in hill climbs and possibly circuit racing.
Primarily it is to be a daily driver.

The previous rebuild didn't quite make it as a daily driver and it didn't last. I never drove it to 6000rpm. Is that driving with respect?

Steve.E, what is your suggested driving style for an a-series to last 10-15 years? Is it to not use more than 4000rpm?
If I get 5 years/50000km's out of the next rebuild I won't mind. better than 2.5years/5000km.

Here's the options so far:
bore to 1380
resleeve to 1275
replace with 1485
buy a crap box.

Any others?

Author:  demonic1100 [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

i'd bore this one to 1380 and then fit one of the higher ratio diffs while it's in bits so it's not reving as much

how often where you doing oil changes what filter were you using

Author:  hbr [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 5:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

oil change every 6 months standard valvo line oil filter from super cheap
air filter being lyn x type.

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