Have just purchased a 1976 mini and was unsure of fuel requirements.
Do I have to add anything to my fuel or is normal unleaded ok?

It depends on what the previous owner has done. They may have pulled the head off and converted it to unleaded and thus you will be able to use straight unleaded without the need for a additive.

Unleaded became mandatory in 1986 so vehicles sold in/after '86 will be unleaded compliant.

So - (standard) your car will take leaded fuel so you will need to put additive in your tank when you fill up. Make sure you use at least "Premium" fuel as the old "super" was about 95-96 octane ("premium" fuel is 95 octane). I myself use 98 octane fuel (stops pinging).

BTW welcome to Ausmini!

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Hi
This is a chestnut that pops up fairly regularly and there are divided opinions however, a greater number of mini people on here say that unless you have hardened valve seats then you should use Premium fuel with a flashlube additive.

Without getting into another big very technical debate on the subject, if you have a new pride and joy mini, then for the extra little bit of money for the piece of mind, PREMIUM fuel and additive is the best way to go.

I use it religiously.

I was using 98 with additive until I was advised not too. Personally I've noticed no difference performance wise and visible to the head. The was head reco about 2 years ago perhaps slightly less and wasn't told if they did put hardened valave seats in or not or whatever else they do to convert it.

I say it's up you, after all its your car. But I do recommend 98 octane fuel with and without additive. If you really have the desire to know for sure whether your head is leaded or unleaded then ask here what to look for(?) and or take it to somewhere that know Mini's is preferable but any mechanic should know and see the difference.

The ONLY way to be sure if it has unleaded valve seats is to take the head off and take it to a machine shop. They can tell by the way the new seats have been cut in and they can also tell by try to score the seat for hardness.

Like I said in the earlier post, its an area of intense debate even amongst alledged experts. I have personally seen recissed valves in heads (not only mini's) where additive was not used. Recissed valves is where the valve seats get burnt away or damaged and the valves themselves burnt until there is no gas flow or compression.

I have also personally seen heads that have 20,000 on them with the additive and have little or no carbon build up or valve and seat wear.

For the extra bit of money is it not better to be safe rather than sorry.

poeee uses it, and nearly cried in the servo the other day when he realised there was only one tankfuls worth left in the big bottle he had.

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Introducing 'LITE'. The new way to spell 'light' with 20% less letters!

I don't know my name anymore.

I run a Fuelstar inline. They cost about $180 but is garanteed for a lifetime. Graham Russell swears by them, and so far, I've had no problems with it. So much easier not having to add additives, cuase I am a lazy bastard

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I used to use that flashlube additive

But i dont anymore...
Mr X said that it wasnt necessary and Mr X is a very knowledgable mini person who i trust

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Yes - I have heard that from a number of other reputable mechanics as well that fuelstar is the way to go.

In my case its just that so many other things require my money that a $7 little bottle of flashlube doesn't hurt as much.

On another note - I was at the Kandos Street Machine show a week or so back. Brad and the boys from Katoomba Performance were there with their dyno doing a dyno comp. I think the top horse they did was way over the 700 HP mark.

Lots of 500 horses galloping around.