I doubt the water jacket area will rust much, if at all.
They were left bare as cast when new, it's unlikely to be even barer after the treatment...
if you're worried, tip some neat ethylene glycol in, slosh it and let it drain out.
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| After the Molassas dip https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27709 |
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| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | After the Molassas dip |
Got the block submerged in a molassas bath at the moment to remove the rust. Apart from a good wash afterwards, all the references I've seen say to give it a phosphoric acid wash after to prevent re-rust which happens quickly. I'll just give the machined surfaces a coat of oil and the outside is to be painted so that is taken care of - just wondering about the internals of the water jacket - anyone ever tried spraying something like Killrust Paint in there to stop it rusting? Do you think it would effect the cooling ability? |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
David One of the reasons I give my blocks to the local engine reco person to hot dip is that he opens up the oil ways and the water jackets to give them a good clean. They are then wire cleaned and blown out to get rid of the build up of scale and the HUGE amount of casting sand that is still in the blocks (especialy in the waterways). Its then a good idea to start with a reco'ed or new radiator that is clean of the build up. Radiator inhibitor (ethylene glycate) should stop the rusting process quickly reoccuring. One of the major problems we face with any block (even in the shed under cover) is wasps making nests in the blocks waterways if the welch plugs and water pumps are not fairly quickly fitted to the block after cleaning. |
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| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Should have mentioned - the welsh plugs are out and the oil gallery plugs have been removed - the internals of the water jacket have been poked, scrapped and prodded, the drain hole on the back of the block had to be drilled out and a lot of solid crud has been removed before going in the bath. I still have some machine work to be done - new cam bearings, re-bore and possible deck skim to level with pistons once I've got them sorted, so after all that I was going to get it washed again depending how bad it was. |
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| Author: | Blokeinamoke [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 2:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Anything that inhibits the thermal transfer from the block/head to the coolant will inhibit cooling. Anything that allows the heat to cross over without heating at a different rate the the iron should be OK. That being said the only thing I know of with the thermal characteristics of iron is iron. Any of the paints etc with come off after a few cycles in the presence of water. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Feb 06, 2007 4:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I doubt the water jacket area will rust much, if at all. They were left bare as cast when new, it's unlikely to be even barer after the treatment...
if you're worried, tip some neat ethylene glycol in, slosh it and let it drain out. |
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