Hi guys
Is there any professional mob that will build me honda or camira brakes and then engineer them for me? surely if they are set up properly they would be better than an original Mini item? and a darn sight cheaper.

Cheers Michael

_________________

just try your local engineers? get on the phone with the yellow pages and ask.... or ask your brake place

_________________
-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

i dont think you can beat the price of 8.4's, and no engineering

1200 beans for a 8.4inch or 1750 for a brand spankers 7.5inch set up. Thats Kinda dear I thought?
Cheers guys

_________________

How much will the Honda or Camira setup cost you if you're buying brand new rotors/drive flanges/callipers/mini hubs ? Remember to compare apples with apples here , you can pickup used 8.4's and the relevent kit's to refurbish them from some of the importers for similar money to what you will buy all the bits and engineer the camira ones for .

_________________

and when set up well 8.4's stop very well

_________________
real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

the main points to remember when considering conver. are
1 rim diam, off set and stud p.c.d. that you want to use
2 standard mini drum hubs can be converted to take taper roller brgs.
3 caliper mounting plates can be fitted to std. drum hubs[ done on many rear disc set-ups.on other cars]
4 you can buy new blank disc rotor to drill to suit.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Dave...I'm all ears...much machining involved?? none?? Cheers, Mick

[PS sounds like the making of a great "How To"]

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

well as far as a set of 8.4s the best I have come across was $600 pretty much bare and needing a rebuild plus interstate shipping. you mentioned importers? could you give me an example?
Cheers guys

_________________

Mick, they fit straight in, no machining needed.
They are same bore and O/D as the ball bearings are.
TheMiniMan and many other shops use nothing else now.

Just DON'T torque them to more than 60 lb/ft, the torque is determined by the CV thread size not the bearing type.

Only thing to watch is the inner seal next to the CV, it needs to be left out of hub a bit more so the Timken inner cone won't foul it.
There is/was a different spacer ring for this (as used on disc hubs) but you can get by without it if careful.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Give steve a ring at Brickworx racing he sells sets for around the $850 mark ready to bolt on no rebuilding no machining no engineering 100% legal..

Disc brakes guys.
No more adjustments.
Make very precise predictions on where and how you are going to stop.

Stop being such &*(&ing tight*rses and invest in some DECENT brakes.

On paper the honda/camira brake conversion seems the way to go. To be legal, they will cost as much if not more than a set of 8.4's... and if you have to pay someone to do them for you... well good luck.

I've never considered a brake conversion from another car, and never will.

_________________

beanie, the supplier you mentioned sells bolt up conversions for 1200bucks

what would you recommend willy?

_________________

mick
if you want to go to taper roller brgs. instead of angular contact[std brgs.] drmini is right. the hubs are about .010" different in depth of brg housing. if you want i can give you some spacers to suit taper rollers to get correct pre-load on brgs. you can contact me on my email.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com