I bought these seemingly one of a kind stupid 12 inch Performance Superlites new in 2003. Now im currently undertaking this Honda Civic Disc Brake Conversion again... I tried a few years ago but it wouldnt fit, so i tossed all the bits. Now im determined to make it work. So ive bought another set of calipers and just picked up some new Rotors 2day.

Others have apparently used the same 12in wheels with there conversions and have had no issues with clearing the caliper.... Even when using NO SPACER AT ALL.....

But as you can see from my pics... There is no chance... In these pics i have a 16mm spacer fitted. If i went to the recommended 25mm spacer id say it would clear.... BUT..... Due to the ride height of my car, if i go that wide, the tyre catches on the front inner leading edge of the gaurd....

No i dont wanna jack the car up either.....

So id say ill end up maching the rotor down a bit, maybe even build the kit as if im doing it for 10in rims.... The inner part of my rim is only 10in in diameter anyways.... And the rotor itself is 9 inch. Maybe it would be easier to buy a new set of 12 inch Superlites....?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Probably a bit late now, but you can use City rotors and callipers instead of Civic.

City ones are approx 8.4" and cleared all 12" or 13" rims I have tested without a spacer.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I had enough trouble sourcing any Honda parts up here..... According to the wreckers up here Honda dosnt exist... So i was kinda stuck.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

The main diff between a City caliper and a Civic one is the bolt spacing, I'd borrow a City rotor and see how you go.

<edit> or just turn 0.5" or less off the Civics.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If thats the case, id still have to change the caliper mounting bracket to suit the smaller diameter rotor. Ive just spent $85 on new rotors, so i mite as well just get these ones machined down. The have to be redrilled anyways......

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

The Civic disks are 2mm (I think?) wider than the City ones, so you would also have to machine the braking surfaces down.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Im gunna try n get the rotor machined to 8.4in and modify the caliper mount to suit...? It mite just clear the rim????? Stupid wheels.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

mate did you want me to measure my back plate to see if your are the same?

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I havnt got a caliper mount plate made up yet. But from me just sitting the rotor inside the rim with 16mm spacer, the caliper fouls on the inside of the rim.... I think with 25mm spacer it would clear, but if i run with a spacer that wide, the front of tyre ends up fouling on the front inner edge of the gaurd when i turn full lock. I think its to do with this aftermarket Rover front apron panel that was fitted to the car 10 years ago....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Hanra it sounds like alot of work for camparitvly little gain, if any?

Why fit these honda brakes mate? Whats wrong with the mini ones? Seems like alot of routing around to come up with the same thing.

Mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

With 25mm spacers the Honda brakes are the same width between the wheels as S brakes, so you would have a body problem anyway.
Something there ain't right....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah i know. I think the Rover front apron panel was meant for a rubber mounted subframe car...? Mine has small metal spacers in between the front of the subframe and the mount on the apron.....

If u look at the wheel arch side on, the section of the wheel arch which is part of the apron panel actually kicks in towards the tyre. The wheel arch is not symetrical. I think 10 years ago when the apron panel was fitted, the panel beaters just simply made it fit.... They didnt know any better.

This is my problem. Only on full lock, it scrubs the tyres. Ive thought about adjusting my tie bars out but i dont wanna screw up the castor......

Yes its a lot of effort, but i just cant leave stuff alone.... Ive always gotta tinker with stuff.....You would think that i would learn to just leave stuff alone....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Josh's (Mini Mad's) Clubby has the same dimensioned UK front and it had no probs with Hondas and Superlight 12x5s.
May need to get out Mr Anglegrinder then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

its crossed my mind..... but i spoke to my panel beater and his thoughts were pull the flares off, cut it, re-fit flares and possibly re-paint front end.....

I would rather make the brakes fit the body , then make the body fit the brakes.....

Ive got my adjustable tie rod bars set at the same length as standard, so im not sure if i should lengthen them at all.... I dont know how much this will effect handling, the thing will probably wander all ove the road.....?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras