Me again.
Can somebody give some tips on how to fit the silver side mouldings to my MkII S?
I have bought the plastic ones from minispares.
I have heard that a hairdryer (or heatgun on low) will help to bend them at certain points where needed, but how are they actually fixed to the car?
(The original ones on my car had been riveted on from the top - ugly!, and also don't fit too good in places. I can't see how these new ones can be riveted from the bottom ).
many thanks once again.
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I had new ones put on with very very short rivetts...ie though the under side of the plastic moulding and though the side of car ...But not though all the way on the other side of the moulding..IE 1 part moulding 1 part car then stop does not come though the top...
Im happy with them

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DVS K
Toad the Moke
Brutus the Ute
Mean Monster
Purple People Eater

I did this only three weeks ago, they go to crap after only ten years and I was getting ashamed of mine. I botched them a little all the way back then and shamed myself into redoing them. There are two types available, one is harder to work than the other.

I used only two rivet in allready present holes, one at the extreme front and the same at the extreme rear. If you manage to fit them nicely around the tight corners below the doors and rear arch, then you shouldn't need any more.

I didn't have need to use a hot air blower. I tested it on a scrap and found that you must be very careful though with the application of heat. My scrap melted way to easily, I tried hot water as well, but that just made it uncomfortable. The way it melted scared me so I laid them out with a weight on each end in the sun for five days. Putting them on with the roll memory in them will drive you to distraction, it's nearly impossible. Once done they will still have slight curving, but will be much much nicer to handle. Much patience is required around the sharpest turns, it will take time so you must be patient. A rubber mallet comes in very handy as well.
In the end, cos I laid them out I didn't need any heat, though they will give you the irrits. I did one first and then summoned up the guts to do the next one a week later. Nobody noticed it at the Picnic at Hanging Rock that one side was crap.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

So what holds it all to the car from the back to the front rivets you put in - is it just the clamping effect of the shape of the moulding pinching the body work - I wouldn't have thought that was strong enough to stay there?
I can see this is going to be one of those jobs.............
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I have found waiting till a warm day (which can be a bit hard here in Tassie!!) leave the moulding in the sun for an hour or so will make soft to feed on. I always put it on the car oppisite way to which it is rolled, ie, dont make the natural curve go with the wheel arch, make it go with the little corner. I have used a dab contact adhesive inside the mould to hold it to the lip. Or have seen people use a double sided clip simular to what holds the inside felt strip on the door glass. But it's still a bugger of a job....

Hey James - don't know about you down in Hobart, but there's been no shortage of warm days up this end - phew, a few stinkers lately. And then about an inch of rain last night in a thunderstrom in about 30mins - water in the house, garage......aaahhhh.
But your advice sounds cool - will give it a go.
Thanks mate.
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

You can also use a spot of super glue every now and then and it will keep them on quite nicely.

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Use the exiting rivet holes that are in the metal section of the flare.You can see the rivet in this pic.Don't drill all the way thru the mould,only the lip under the mould.

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Chuck the moulding in the clothes-dryer, with a few towels for some extra heat build-up.

Then, run them outside to the car and whack 'em on as quickly as you can.

You can use the hair dryer, too.

<edit> Those are some sexy tyres^^^^^^^^^^ *DROOL*

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Do put a rivet or two under the ridge where the doors are. Its just amazing how many people catch their feet on the moulding and pull it off.

Yeah - I know, you have had a mini for seventy years and never once !!!!! - it has happened to me a few times though

Thanks guys. Some good tips there - see how we go. Hopefully I won't throw too many tantrums - or tools!

LS - I want your tyres.........

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

Havent done it yet but thought I would use a few dabs of clear silicone filler to hold at the right spots

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!