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Ford EA Alternator Conversion
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28489		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Ford EA Alternator Conversion
Hi

I just finished replacing my stock alternator (about time...) with a Ford EA Bosch one
Bosch Part Number: BXF1255
85 amps

I used a Magna lower alternator bracket with the belt tensioner <---- cool easy adjustment

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Still having problems though I'm getting somewhere around 13V on idle and around 14V revved but having issues with idling now. It slowly idles down from the normal idle speed rev it and goes back to normal then slowly goes down again. Just got this adjusted by TheMiniMan a few weeks ago and has not been driven that much at all.
Author:  9YaTaH [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 7:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Neat
Looking good...maybe you could fiddle with the pulley size to allow for the generally higher revs :?:

Should be a stickey in the how to's :idea:
Author:  slinkey inc [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 9:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Looks neat!

I got an N15 Pulsar one in my car (70 amp), works well but I the alternator light on my dash (LS tripple guage) doesn't work. I've talked to toher people with similiar conversions, but have the same issue as me.
Author:  Razor [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:11 am ]
Post subject: 
I had to remove a washer behind the pulley to align it
The ford alternator pulley is quite similar to the mini pulley, so thought it wouldnt make a difference.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Razor wrote:
I had to remove a washer behind the pulley to align it
The ford alternator pulley is quite similar to the mini pulley, so thought it wouldnt make a difference.

It's OK size pulley for a Mini.
Just watch that pulley isn't worn, or the belt slips regardless of tension. The one on my EA was real bad.
So I bored a cast iron Lucas 15AC one out to fit. 8)
The iron ones wear lots less than the split tin ones.
Author:  Razor [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
The Ford pulley cant be worn as the alternator is brand spanking new
belt isnt slipping as well but if I got no other options might just buy a new one for trial and error.
Author:  Razor [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:35 am ]
Post subject: 
tried adjusting the idle screw and now it idles around 900rpm - 1000rpm but it stays there
if I set the idle lower than the idle goes down slowly till it stalls.
Author:  volkmini [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
sorry, about the late reply but i just found this topic. is the wiring much different from a mini alternator set-up. i'm thinking about doing this conversion.
Author:  Razor [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
I cant remember exactly but its quite easy conversion

wiring is very similar to the pulsar alternator conversion
2 pin plug marked as S and L
L being the circuit on the dash
S is the sense wire coming off the battery circuit

I think I used a 2nd hand injector connector

goodluck!
Author:  dove grey 64 [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
looks better then my one, i had a n14 pulsar one which was fine, then it died and i got commonwhore internals fitted to itto boost output to 90 amps, and now the casing is a bit to large to fit nicely.
Author:  slinkey inc [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Shouldn't 'S', come from igntion? As to not drain the battery when the cars off?
Author:  Kennomini [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have one out of a Ford KA Laser in mine. No idea on power but it works a treat, noy a single problem. :D
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
slinkey inc wrote:
Shouldn't 'S', come from igntion? As to not drain the battery when the cars off?

I agree, the <S> wire should come from the fuse which is switched by ignition. The one the blinkers and stoplights connect to. :wink:
Author:  Razor [ Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Oh sorry I remembered I did connect it on the blinkers
been a while and did not document the conversion
Author:  Convertible Mini [ Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Alternator connections.
All Bosch new style RE60 voltage regulators (like the one here in question) have two terminals marked L and S. The 'L' (lamp) goes to the warning lamp and the 'S' (sensing) goes straight to battery + I prefere straight to the B+ terminal on the Alternator itself. This treminal does not draw any current when engine is not running like someone suggested. Do not connect S terminal to Ignition because if you have a voltage drop "which is very possible on a Mini" the regulator will sense the low voltage and make the Alternator charge at a higher rate which will result in overcharge. Also make sure when you fit one of these Alternators to a Mini add a couple of 6mm cabled in paralell from the B+ treminal of the Alternator straight to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Remember the original Alternator only produced 35 A max and that is just about what the original wiring can carry. This will help the 85 Amps get to the battery without sqeezing through the original wiring and warming it up !
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