Try softest - works to lift Drag cars, ie soften front. Hardening the rear won't do anything as the adjustment only changes bump not droop.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Yeah true ay. It would cause the nose to squat down more under extreme braking.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

15 years later. It seems that the passenger side piston is seizing in the caliper. I went to move the car and it was stuck. I haven’t actually moved it for about a year and a half. Prior to that it sat for about the same time in storage. Overall it has not done many miles. Almost 11,000 miles since being registered in 2003.

Looking back through this it appears that I used the original pistons. Unsure if replacements are available. All my pics on Photobucket are gone. But I’m sure I’ve got some saved on an old PC. I can’t recall the condition of the original pistons.

I did put a kit through the M/C in 2015 so the brake fluid would have been changed back then. And it’s most certainly over due for replacement again.

Is that the thought process. That the brake fluid would have moisture in it causing corrosion?

I’ve taken the caliper off mounting plate and fitted my caliper spreaders inside with some play and pumped the pedal just to excercise the piston and let it move in/out. It comes out no worries. It certainly requires some effort to wind the spreaders back in to compress the piston.

Wouldn’t have thought it should be that hard? Otherwise the brakes would always drag???

The pads have bugger all wear on them so the piston has been parked in the fully home position for quite some time…..

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Maybe the caliper seals are hard now, I'd fit new ones and bleed the system.
Good to see this thread still has life!!
It's flex in the seal rubber that pulls the piston back.
See your local brake shop.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers for all your help with this many years ago Doc! You could be on to something there. Very high likelihood of hard seals. Shame Photobucket ruined all the pics. I think I have them all saved somewhere.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I can’t quite remember the detail of the caliper. Would it leak brake fluid if I removed the outer rubber seal? Or is it the actual seal inside the caliper that the piston seals against that makes the piston return?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Theo outer seal is just a dust seal.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

It's the inner seal that flexes back on brake release.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Righteo. So that still means a caliper rebuild then. Ill see how I go over the next year or so.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Overhaul currently in progress. I’ve got new Protex pistons. Should I use red rubber grease on the seals during assembly or just brake fluid? Read somewhere to use silicone grease on the caliper pin sliders?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Bought some Bendix Ceramasil lubricant for seals/slides etc. Got the callipers all back together. Went to install them and stripped the threads on the brake hoses. Ffs. I think I read somewhere that the thread pitch is slightly off. So perhaps that’s damaged the threads slightly during the first install???

What does the original Honda Civic hose set up look like? I wonder if I can get brake hose made to reflect the Honda style hose?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Looks like original Honda hoses use a banjo fitting.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras