Gday, i have complete disk brake assembly from a metro, just wondering what is involved in fitting the set up to a mini. Will the uprights fit as i know the ball joints look different, any help appricated, cheers..

To do the setup 'properly' you keep the calipers and drive flange and turf the rest.
Use mini uprights and get new rotors, the oldies have prolly had it.

To use the metro hubs, you will need to change the ball joints to mini type ones I believe, and you should get negative camber lower arms.

The drive flange will need a minor mod too, you should have the locating bit in the middle machined off. (ref pic)

If you use the metro hub/upright/whatever then you don't need mini balljoints, you want 'early' metro ones (as opposed to 'late' - don't know the cut off sorry) as they are the same size taper but a vastly better design - no shimming or stupid screws. The late ones are a larger taper.
As far as the tabs on the drive flange - obviously you only have to machine these if they interfere with your wheels. I run Imp wheels (same fitment as GT) so the tabs work as intended.

if you use the metro hubs look at the camber as they give a bit more positive camber than the mini hubs

for myself i use the mini hubs with metro discs and caliper, the mini ball joints are more easily to get over here and i don't own the 46mm deep socked needed for the metro balljoints

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Rover 214 atm ....

im doing it to my mini all tony from mini sport 1275 was to get a 1.5 neg- camber arm , and a blrake hose kit, mokester also backed this up for me,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

This topic is linked by supercharged 850's advert. That ad says you get Metro turbo hubs and flanges but solid disc and callipers to suit.

Please note that this combination will not bolt together as is. You will need drive flanges to suit the solid discs. Otherwise the disc will not line up with the calliper.

It may be possible to space the calliper to the right position if the offset is in one of the two possible directions.

Still very good buy at $300 though..

I dont understand why they wouldnt line up.... i mean, if you can put the metro vented bits straight onto mini disc hubs, then why wouldnt the opposite be the same??

Or do I need to also take the metro flange for the vented disc conversion? ....and then put the solid flanges from the mini onto the metro hubs with the solid discs and calipers....

I was told that I could use the mini flanges with the vented discs......

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Metro flange= Metro disc.
I never bothered trying to use the 8.4 solid flange on the vented disc,
since I don't need to modify it the other way.

Another note for 8.4 caliper on metro hub......the holes in the caliper for bolting it to the metro hubs would need to be enlarged. Metro used metric bolt, mini uses imperial.

Can somebody summarise this? It's getting messy. My interest would be going from metro vented back to either metro solid or mini 8.4 while changing as few pieces as possible.

Normally the flanges should stay with the rotors and callipers. That way, no serious modifications are required.

It is technically possible to use mini flanges with vented discs and callipers but the discs will need the inside of the hat machined down and the callipers spaced. Also the steering knuckles would need to be shaped a bit. If this is what you plan to do then go for it and sell all of the surplus. You'll end up with the right steering geometry and front wheel offset.

People just need to know that if you use metro turbo flanges with solid discs the disc will end up in the wrong location. It is because the disc mounting face is in a different position on the two types of drive flange.

When I get a chance I'll do up a few drawings of the items.

supercharged 850 I sent you a PM. I'd like to buy the Metro swivel hubs separate to the rest if you'll separate.

If he doesn't want to get rid of his metro hubs separate, I might!

I've got all the bits (I hope) and was going to have a go at this tomorrow. With regard to the comment :-
The drive flange will need a minor mod too, you should have the locating bit in the middle machined off

I was just going to take to it with my grinder - Is there a reason that it needs to be "machined" off - implies to me on a lathe or so

Your grinder will still do the job.
Machining has the advantage of doing the job evenly and smoothly
to keep it as balanced as possible. You could (I didn't) also take a skim off
the mounting face to smooth it up if it is damaged or rusty.

I will give this all a good look at on Saturday (oh, that would be today... after I sleep).

Ive got a complete 8.4" Rover mini setup, and a complete 8.4" Vented metro setup.... the idea is to convert my mini hubs to vented and the metro hubs to solid, then sell off the metro hubs and solid discs.


And yep, depending on how they all bolt up, they are already sold.


SO today... (during the ads and between races ) I will assemble both kits the way I want them, check all the gaps, then inform the buyer as to whether I am satisfied enough with the result to sell him the metro hub kit.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Ok.... assembled 2 lots of brakes today. I started with 1 complete set of vented metro brakes and 1 complete set of standard 8.4" solid discs off a Rover/1275LS/moke. Here are my results.


This is what you get when you put the SOLID discs and Rover/1275LS/moke calipers onto the Metro turbo hubs....







Here is a list of what is used in this setup.
-pair of metro turbo hubs.
-pair of metro drive shaft ends (same as mini disc ones) with the tapered washer and nut
-pair of 8.4" standard rover/1275LS/moke calipers ( 2 pistons )
-pair of 8.4" solid disc rotors
-pair of rover mini drive flanges to suit the solid disc rotors

This is what you will need to buy and/or modify
-8x new high tensile bolts that hold the flange to the disc. (I believe they are 3/8" imperial)
-Ball joints may need to be replaced - later shafts do not fit mini arms.
-Mounting holes on the caliper need to be enlarged slightly (1 or 2 mm) to allow the metro hub mounting bolts to fit.
-Change the steering arms with ones that are currently on your mini.
-New flexable brake hoses
-Adjustable bottom suspension arms to correct the camber
-New split pins for driveshaft , and maybe for the pads too.
-New locking tabs for the steering arm bolts and caliper bolts
-Piston rebuild kit



This is what you get when you put the VENTED discs and 4 pot calipers onto the Rover/1275LS/moke hubs....

(picture stolen from Harley.... was better than mine)


Here is a list of what is used in this setup.
-pair of rover/1275LS/moke hubs.
-pair of rover/1275LS/moke driveshafts to suit discs, with the tapered washer and nut
-pair of Metro Turbo 4 pot calipers
-pair of Metro Turbo 8.4" vented disc rotors
-pair of Metro Turbo drive flanges to suit the vented disc rotors (may need the 4 locating tabs machined off the face, depending on the wheel you use)

This is what you will need to buy and/or modify
-Hose adapter kit and flexable brake hoses (4 pots have 2 brake lines per caliper which need to be linked to the one supply hose per side of the car)
-New split pins for driveshaft , and maybe for the pads too.
-New locking tabs for the steering arm bolts and caliper bolts
-Piston rebuild kit

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs