My exhaust/extreactors are now ready to be painted or whatever (if at all), just wondering what people have used or would recommend?

At first I was going to just paint it with 1500 deg paint, then I toyed with getting it
black anodised/black oxided. Currently it's just going to stay bare, but I hate
knowing how it will look after some times use.

So I'm back to painting. Does it actually stick and do the job, or does it just burn straight
off?

Thanks.

I'm wrapping mine - meant to be helpful in preventing vapour lock in the carbs. And I think it's not a bad look (not that you can see much of it anyway).
It's pretty effective - my mate wrapped his extractors on his Sprite, and you could put your hand on the pipes at running temp.
Peter

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I bought a set of wrapped extractors once, when I too the wrap off, they were rusted to hell...
Bad news I reckon.

I've heard only good about Jet-Hot coatings, but it's dear to have it done.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I actually wondered about that - might have a rethink.......thanks for raising it
Peter.

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1969 Mini Cooper S MKII (1330)
1972 Honda 750/4 (his),1976 Honda 400/4 (hers)
1982 Honda CB1100RC (ours)

I was going to look into wraps when I get around to it. Might be worth painting and then wrapping.

I don't know if the airflow on a mini is critical at the back of the block, but it would have to lower engine bay temp and could help add a little more power?

Let us know how you get on.

Unlike most cars a Mini gets COLD air (not warm via radiator) shoved in the front at speed.
I reckon wrapping the exhaust would have limited effect on engine bay temp, except sitting in traffic.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've used the White Knight pressure pack "Hi Temp" on extractors and it seems to last ok.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I have heard only bad things about wrapping exhausts... hence I have not done so to mine. I just have paint on them.

If you can afford it, Jet Hot coat them

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

i painted mine with that 1500deg paint, lasted about 5 mins and then smoked off

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

I have tried all 3 methods. the high temp paint does last a while if your extractors are new to start with, I have used it on a few cars and had good results, just prep the surface well. HPC is definitely the best coating and it is not that dear. I paid about $100 for mine to be done, considering i paid 3 times that for the pipes not too bad. The blown car has wrap on it and so did my worked show car 66bmc. If you are going to wrap it there are 2 types, fibreglass and cloth. The cloth is more expensive but holds water. Is thinner so is easier to wrap with and lasts longer. The fibreglass wrap is cheap about $50 per roll, doesnt cause rusting as it doesnt hold water but is a bitch to put on. It is thicker and harder to get a clean looking wrap and I itched for about 3 days afterwards. Hope this helps.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

HPC coatings in VIC do a special coating to the inside and outside of the pipes, HiPerCoat. The inside coating achieves a similar effect as a wrap, that being to retain heat in the exhaust gas. This heat retention in the gas maintains velocity and increases the extractor effect (some people question this theory, but it makes sense from a thermodynamics view).

The problem with a wrap is that condensed moisture collects after the engine is shut down and this rusts the pipes, reducing life.

For $15 or so the HiTemp from white knight looks good as opposed to nothing.

regards

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I've used POR15 black hi temp paint and it doesn't burn off but it is no good on pipes that were rusted to start with. With new pipes, it's fine.

Al

I used wrape on our's for 3 od years...then took it off just to see if thier was any Rust. To say the pipes were perfect before is an understatment...but just wraped them any way.

No Rust when I took it off...Yep I paid $50 for the wrap also

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The quality of the steel will make more difference to rust than wrapping them in tape will. I had a set of Janspeed LCB pipes rust out while the car was sitting for 5 years. My race car with wrapped aussie made pipes sat in the weather for 10 years and the pipes were still good.

Exhaust wrap works very well, it made a big difference on my old race car. I could run 4° more advance without the motor pinging.

I've got to dissagree on the pipe wrapping, I know what the possibilities are due to too much heat being contained, moisture held against the pipe etcetera and it would make sense that this might happen.

But I have used it on the Cooper's exhaust since 1998. I heard what could happen back then but gave it a go as I could use it as an excuse to get a nice set of new LCB's anyway. I finally ditched that manifold last year after 7.5 years and replaced it with a Maniflow(I replaced them because I didn't want the crappy 3 into 1 anymore). There was no damage apparent to the pipes, no corrosion or damage anywhere. I also tried this on a WRX I owned some time ago, it had a stainless 316 exhaust, and once again no issue. The wrx did 100k with the wrapped pipes.

We use wrapped pipes on every engine the Navy uses to keep the engine room temps down. They are lagged up to 3 inches thick in the stuff at times, and being used constantly under load the AVERAGE exhaust temps will hover between 900 and 1000 degrees for weeks at a stretch. The material used here is normal steel, nothing fancy. They do fail but after a few years, and usually due to vibrations not erosion. To keep it in balance though, the lagging is sealed with a paste to keep the bilge moisture from settling in the lagging.

I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I've not had a problem.

BTW, good 2" wide stuff can be had from Blackwoods for about 35 bucks a roll of ten meters. Plenty.

The pipes as they were removed, and without the wrap, they weren't new when I got them either, very 2nd hand:




The electrical tape was replaced with hose natty new clamps after this photo:

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.