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| Fix it or Replace it?... https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2922 |
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| Author: | BeanMe [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Fix it or Replace it?... |
Hope this question is not too vague but i was hoping to get some external opinions... i have a 1974 leyalnd Mini S with a 998cc in it.. the gearbox needs reconditioning (1st and 2nd synchros) and i think the clutch too, but it runs well.. the minicraft place here in WA has quoted in the vicinty of 800 for the gearbox and around 400ish for the clutch...yet they import 1275's in for $1000 and install for $500 Now my question to all is.... do i spend $1500 on a 1275 (all inclusive i am lead to believe) or fix up the 998cc.... for around 1000-1200 will it have to go over the pits as well?...with the 1275? i have spent a total on $3000 so far and interior and paint work is excellent. is it worth me while spending it on the 998cc or go for the unknown on a 1275. Could i expect a value increase on the car if i do either of these... Opinions PLEASE!!! |
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| Author: | aaron [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Putting in a 1275 will mean a disc brake upgrade, which will be anywhere between $600 to $2000 depending on your luck. A gearbox complete and running for a rod change from a sydney dealer is around $350, so $800 sounds rich. $400 for a clutch is over the top, clutch kits are around $100, add a few gaskets etc etc and you may have a total of $550, the rest is labour... Are you shure the gearbox is stuffed and not just your clutch? Be sure before comitting to anything. Anyone in WA want to go have a look to see what is wrong? Cheers Aaron |
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| Author: | J_A_M [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
in NSW, 1275 = disc brakes. Is it the same in WA? No discs, no 1275.... 
I would want discs anyway with a 1275. The increased performance over a 998 would need them. Tough call......if you spend the bux on the 1275 and its a dud, then it's money wasted. Better the devil you know with the 998 maybe 
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| Author: | BeanMe [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Aaron [My name's Aaron too  ]
Yeh I'm fairly sure its the synchro's, on one of my previous posts i mentioned the symptoms and most replies said the 2nd synchro was shot. [Better the devil you know then a shot imported one!]. Yeh i thought those prices were a bit rich too. I am a uni student so dont want to spend to many fo ym hard earned dollars..i may just take the engine out and do myself perhaps...like u say it will save big dollars and after my exams i will have the time. I wish there was a cheaper option over here in olde WA... Any other thoughts? |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Honda brake conversion perhaps? sure is cheaper than cooper 7.5s... And I agree with Anton, 1275 i would look at discs. I am running my 1100 on drums at the moment and I think it's on the knife edge in terms of stopping power and the ability to keep on stopping! 
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| Author: | thommo09 [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
do the clutch first....and $400 is only just on the pricey side if its all done well....i tihnk it cost me $300-$350 to get the clutch and slave cylinder done and then everything was fine (and still is)....that was after the other two mechanics i had look at it tell me that it was definately the synchros........the moral of the story, do the clutch first!!!
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It is pretty easy to spend $700-$800 just on gearbox parts, depends what you find stuffed in there. Synchros are $30+ each, layshaft $45 -$85, diff bearings $130/pr.. a new mainshaft (I just bought one..) $180, bearing kit (mainshaft & layshaft) $150. It just adds up, and up. But, if you're gonna do it, do it properly- then no tears after you fit it, and it'll last for years.. 
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| Author: | Mike [ Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Doc is that g'box rebuild kit with or without a diff from minispares (http://minispares.com/SearchResults.asp ... 0PLUS%2014) a good option and pretty much all that is needed? |
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| Author: | 1380 yellow devil [ Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
We have a 1275 wihtout disc brakes and I think the the drums work better on it when they are adjusted correctly but min you when they get a little hotter Disc's are better. I have disc on Mine with out a booster and they are great. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Fri Nov 19, 2004 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used to run drums on a standard 1275, wasn't really an issue, you just need to be sensible about it. Go for the 1275, stick with your drums but make them work properly and see how you go (or stop) |
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| Author: | Wolfman [ Fri Nov 19, 2004 9:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you stick with drums when running a 1275 and have an accident your insurance company will not pay a cent so you'll be up for the cost of your mini and the other car imagine if it was a ferrari 
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| Author: | BeanMe [ Fri Nov 19, 2004 12:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | ... |
Thanks Guys Yeh I am still in 2 minds. I fear Wolfman is right so i may make some enquirires first with the insurance company and the deaprtment for vehicle registraion to see what i have to do Any other ideas\opinions? |
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| Author: | simon k [ Fri Nov 19, 2004 1:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wolfman wrote: If you stick with drums when running a 1275 and have an accident your insurance company will not pay a cent so you'll be up for the cost of your mini and the other car imagine if it was a ferrari
cost of that ferrari says the insurance company wouldn't even know what engine or brakes you're running - my insurance company never knew. Didn't even check the numbers when they wrote off my Cooper S.... but you're right, I concede, it's the same when converting to honda disks, need to be engineered or you're screwed if it's checked |
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