Howdy,

I rebuild the master and slave cylinders and they are built correctly (supposedly)
Clutch has beeen bled

Now I push the clutch in and it wont engage properly (like no clutch)
I pump it... about 3 or 4 times and then hold it in then it engages fine...

What could it be??

Peter

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air.... keep bleeding it, when you think you have bled it enough, leave it for an hour and do it again. If it doesn't work, do it again. Seriously, the clutch can be a real pain to bleed. it will come good though. (if the cylinders were built right)

Cheers
Aaron

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Do you mean the clutch slips and you get no drive to the wheels, or that you can't disengage the clutch to get the car into gear?

If it's the latter, you probably just need to adjust the clutch return stop on the bell housing out a bit until the pedal travel disengages the clutch, then fine tune it until the clutch disengages at the right pedal height, and you get no slippage under load.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

The Dr will do a house call in the morning....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks everyone!

Ill give it a crack... ok I lie... ill wait for doc in the morning cause this ius giving me the SHEETS!

peter

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Seal might be busted thats what happened to mine.

It's had seals in both MC and SC.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK now, needed a little adjustment was all.
It passes my test (can get reverse easily from standstill with no grrrrrrrrrrrrating noises...)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Doc,

Somewhat bad news.
Tried it this arvo (after it sat there a while... and it not as bad as before, but cant get gears right.

It crunched first so I pumped the clutch, it was fine then... so I went round the block and it was like clutch was out, had to ease it into each gear...

So I did the little bolt a bit more (the one you did) and it got better again, but then it was crunching third a bit - but 1st and 2nd were easy.

Should I take it in a bit more?
What happens if I do up the bolt too much? The clutch cover little one you did up today.


Cheers,
Peter

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Don't do it up any more, there is only a couple of thou clearance on it now.I'd say that MC has a little wear or corrosion near the bypass port, the new seals don't always give a 100% result if so.
This means you don't get a full stroke of fluid.
You could sleeve the MC, but a new one may be cheaper.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Rebleed the clutch one more time as well.
I am not convinced that the air is all gone. Nearly everyone has some horror stories geting all the air our by pump and bleeding as opposed to using a vaccum device to suck it out.

Peter, at least you know the clutch is adjusted in terms of throwout clearances as the Doc did it. Its not hard once you grasp the concepts but it has to be right or the clutch wont work. Dont (as the Doc said) touch the adjustment. its not where the problem is. Its hydraulic.

OK, its fixed.

Turns out that the Slave cylinder was buggered.
I ended up forking out and replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder and hose... (inc copper washers)

So, I think the old master I have is ok, just the slave was wrecked...

Took way to long to solve this... and I bled the crap out of the system so many times

Thanks everyone for the tips, thanks Kev for coming over and helping and thanks to Ivan at Mini Spares and Repairs for lending me pressure bleeders, bits and pieces, this and that and not cracking the sh*ts with me

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!