i was having trouble engaging 4th all day didnt know what was going on had to throw it in like reverse now suddenly 3rd and 4th both wont engage at all HELP ive tried the adjusters on the back of the gearbox as one was slipping but i dont know if ive adjusted right or if my gearbox is dead as a door nail any help would be much appreciated as im possibly starting a new job friday and have a resume stating "owns on car" :S

_________________
Enjoy Chris

anybody got any ideas even a stab in the dark?? could the spinning poll the reaches into the gearobx be slightly outline? if i gotta rip it out anyway what extra mods could i chuck on while shes out Supercharger?

_________________
Enjoy Chris

sorry everything ive been saying is really vague had a long day which ended with no 3rd or 4th gear please any help would be much appreciated

_________________
Enjoy Chris

Is yours a remote linkage or rod change?

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

it has the extension casting reaching under the car dont know the technical name but not rod changer i dont think

_________________
Enjoy Chris

It'a a remote shift box then.
If the splines on that top linkage are shagged, or the shift shaft rocks around because the 2 bronze bushes are stuffed, this can cause shift problems but not usually 3rd or 4th.
Bushes are fairly easy to change once motor is out, but you won't do it whilst it's in car.

It could also be an internal problem in the box, like the 3-4 selector fork screw come out..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sounds much like the 3rd/4th selector fork retaining screw inside the gearbox may have come adrift

Maybe

just a thought really, i`d have to test drive & gork at it myself in person to be absolutely sure, but at least that is one thing that it could be,,, not good nes if it is tho as to fix it is a whole engine out job

hope it`s not that

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

thanls for that mate i was hoping like crazy it wouldnt lead to a "which involves taking the engine out" conclusion but while im at it i might as well change my shonky hypelight pistons that have crap oil rings on em lol thanks again

_________________
Enjoy Chris

It's odd that you can still select reverse.

Grab a torch and have a look down (from the top of the engine) the back of the engine and you should see the gear linkage on the top of the diff. Get someone in the car to change gears, without the engine running and with the clutch in, and watch to see the action, see if they is any excess play.

I don't think that it would only be causing a problem in 3rd/4th, if it were loose, it would normally be causing a problem in all gears. I am only suggesting cause to be honest I've never had more than a sloppy gear change with the remote extension. With the rod change I've had a few where the pins have come out resulting in no gears though!

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Mike had a 3-4 selector screw come out shortly after box rebuild, at the time he was in 3rd gear. When he selected 2nd at standstill, the box locked up! Couldn't even push the car.
At least, you still have 1 and 2 working.
Gear interlocks don't work when the shift fork is no longer attached...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ill have a tinker and get back to u all thanks for the suggestions the linkage was loose but i tightened it, How precise does it have top be to work again? should i b puuting it further into the box or further out??? lol only person to help me is my sister atm and most of the time and she doesnt know how gears work which was apparent when she replied to my are u sure its in 3rd and 4th with if i go further overe itll be in 5th and 6th ?!?!?!? lol thanks guys

_________________
Enjoy Chris

When it's set correct, in 3rd and 4th plane the lever is vertical, viewed from behind.
You should only be able to get the splines a max of 1 tooth out, any more and the clamp bolts won't go through there.
If it's all moving and feels normal, clicks into 3rd and 4th but no 3rd or 4th engagement, either the selector fork clamp bolt has come out, or the fork is busted. Not common on the 3-4 one....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ah u hit the nail dead on the head with that one it is clicking like its in gear but has no engagement at all should reverse engage?

_________________
Enjoy Chris

Yes, 1st, 2nd and reverse will work.
Sounds like gearbox out and strip time...
If bolt has come out, after box is stripped, it can be put back in- but I recommend a new shakeproof washer, use Loctite 262 on the bolt thread, and make sure the locknut it tightened properly.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

cheers thabks for that guess it was my bad not rebuilding it when i had it out to start with

_________________
Enjoy Chris