Hey all!

A quick question for all of those electrically minded mini maniacs out there. Just tried on the weekend to kick over the 998 i have put into my 72 clubbie. Could not locate the correct wire to go to the ignition coil. Ended up going from the regulator to the coil and almost blew the whole thing up (funny story, another time). Just wondering if anyone would be able to advise where the wire should be comming from. Its a 72 clubbie loom with alternator. Also what voltage should i have on the coil at different times, i.e at ignition, crank, running etc. Any advise would be a gret help, thanks heaps.

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Voltage at the coil should be a steady 12 volts. It might move a when in use, but not by much.

The wire comes straight from the fuse box via the ignition switch and is white. It is on the same side (ie unfused) as the 12 volts from the battery (connected at the solenoid stud). So it connects from the fuse box to the ignition switch and then to the coil.

Another wire comes off the ignition switch to provide power to the other fuse on the fuse box.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick, thanks for the info.

As i understand it i should be able to find the wire at the ignition switch that has a constant 12V across it when switched on and at crank and remains 12V after crank. I cannot find the original wire but i should be able to run a new one from the ignition direct to the coil. Is that correct?

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Perhaps, but if that constant 12 volts from the ignition is not there, then your window wipers, blinkers and everything else that need to come on with the switch would be gone as well. Have another close look, it will be there.

If you do run it from the switched fuse, (ie it turns on and off with the ignition key) then it "should" be connected on the unfused supply side. If you do or not won't make too much difference depending on the accessories fitted to your car, but it will draw about 5 amps of the 30 amps the fuse allows.

I figure that if a fuse blows because my stereo has cracked the sads, then I still want to be able to get home with a running engine. Run a seperate inline fuse if you need to.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Would it be rude to ask you to pop over one day to have a look? My cousin and i are working on the car, neither of us are good with the electricals. Like i said in my first post, we almost blew the whole thing up yesterday. Youre located in Point Cook, Vic? We are in Hoppers, could compensate your time with a slab or something??

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Yeah mate, can spare some time. Weekend good or sooner?
Wednesday, and thurday are good too.

PM me your details.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

That would be much appreciated.

I will be working on the car on Friday (Good Friday) is that a possibility??

Anyway, best way to get me is [email protected]

The name is Dave

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!

Yeah I'll drop you an email. See you Friday.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks heaps.

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I'm guaranteed to break something every time, but there's nothing like getting under the bonnet and having a go!