Hey all jsut wondering what the more possible reasons a mini would suddenly have its low beam lights disengage? It seemed to ****** when I had the indicator on so I'm guessing the problem lies within the indicator stalk wiring. But as I'm no electrician this is purely a guess. After flickering for a minute it completely cut out so I disconnected the driving lights and drove straight home and garaged her.

If there's no relays in the system I'd suspect the high/low beam switch, maybe you've cooked it.
Also check headlamp wiring behind grille, early Minis had bullet connectors there that got dirty and corroded, not sure what LS has though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I checked out behind the grill and yea the wires are a bit dirty so this afternoon I'll look at that. It seemed to look ok but looks aren't everything especially with Mini wiring. As for the switch that could be a possibility.

I jsut wanted to also whether i can rule out eh indicator stalk because I recently fitted it and it's not done any night driving since its install.

Thanks Kev I'll check it out... least it won't effect me for tomorrow

update....

It was the indicator switch lever thing no matter what I did or dad tried could we get it to work so i pulled it out and put in the old one again. Indicator is a lil ify but the horn and lights at least work properly.

Spend a few dollars and have a relay fitted. That way not only are you able to fit higher wattage H4's but the switch on the stalk ceases to carry all the current required to drive the lights.

Every time you flick the lights, it sparks at the switch. The bigger the current, the bigger the spark and each time it does that a little more of the contacts goes. Failure is inevitable.

With a relay, the stalk switch only carries enough current to pull in the contacts in the relay which NOW carry the heavier current for the lights. Mini lights were not well designed compared with whats available today.

I have H4's on each of the cars we have that use 7 diameter lights and they are great at spotting roos on our rural roads.

Thanks for the heads up Mike. You learn something everyday. Not too concerned about higher wattage as my driving lights already light up everything from here to buggery away. What kinda costs and work are involved with doing it myself? Would the black book have anything on relays?

Only a few dollars to wire up, two relays and a small roll of wire with connectors as well.

Check the indicator assembly before you turf it out. The wires at the indicator arm rock back and forthwith use and the copper strands tend to fall apart. Even if it is not apparent, it may be that the copper inside the wire insulation has cracked and not making contact all the time.

Test by connecting to the loom and wriggling the wire without moving the arm , it will become apparent if this is so. It might save a few dollars if this is so, so it's worth a looky.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I tested it out and looked inside the indicator switch and the cooper wire wasn't touching the contact so I bent the connector a bit and now it touches. I searched the engine bay too and found what looks like a relay, I'm guessing I do mostly cause I have driving lights already installed. Also because it looks like one.

Thanks for your help guys.... proved to be very useful

That relay will be for the driving lights, not the headlamps. Your poor old switch is carrying around 10A or more now, with dodgy contacts...
I'd get a headlamp relay fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.