Just looking for additional ways of stoping the engine from trying to jump boat every time you accelerate or brake.

Its a roundnose with a remote change but it doesnt feel like the remote housing is that effective in providing additional stability for the engine (I'll probably swap the rubber rear remote mount as it might be starting to separate).

All the subframe mounts are tight and the engine steady rubbers are ok. Would using poly, deflex etc engine steady bushes / engine mounts / subframe mounts and or solid subframe mounts do any good without creating an anbearably harsh ride?

Any other tips?

1. After you bolt that rear mount on, loosen the tunnel bracket and push it hard against the mount before tightening the nut. This stiffens the mount.
Otherwise, the mount rubber is not in true shear and will rip away early.
2. Make sure the engine steady rubbers are good- I find the rubber ones last better than the nolathane ones and transmit less vibes.
3. Make sure that LCB has the bottom bracket attached to the gearbox. it won't so much steady the motor as prevent exhaust leaks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My car came with a LH steady from the gearbox to sub frame and I've just bought a RH one for when the angine goes back. Those coupled with the original top one should hold it

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Get one of these - the lower LH side engine steady bar Wombat mentioned. That coupled with the standard one at the top near the master cylinders should be sufficient.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Most of the torsional rigidity is at the top.
This is due to the 'pivot point' being very low on the Mini engine (engine mounts).

The top right (heater hose entry point) mounts for an engine steady is the most effective secondary stabiliser.

No, it's not, having 2 top stabilisers gives a horizontal reaction to driveshaft torque, at the engine mounts. It still moves...
Better to have the std top one and a RH lower one, as Curly says.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As Doc says above, if it is rocking around now then the existing rubber steadies on the remote arm are knackered, or the top left steady rubbers are knackered.

I have a 1275 top right hand steady too in addition to the remote arm and left hand steady. This seems to keep everything stable. If you are running a small bore then there are plenty of clubman steady brackets availiable for the top right hand side...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

i have 2 of the lower engine steady brackets, they came with my motor and are really easy to fit, 3 bolts on the gearbox casing and drill 1 hole in the subby

cheers

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

If it's the same as the one pictured in my earlier post, then you don't need to drill any holes. The rear bracket attaches to the forward-most subframe mounting bolt that goes through the floor.
Another worthwhile improvement to get extra strength around the subframe/floor area, is to replace those four 5/16" bolts with 3/8" ones complete with large washers or plates on the floor.

As an aside mad-mk1, does your keyboard have the full complement of keys? Your posts would be much easier to read if they used regular English conventions like punctuation.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Had one of those - didn't seem to do much apart from ripping the crap out of that whole panel - (I did rectify it by fitting a 3mm steel strenghtening plate on the inside but still didnt seem to stop any engine jerking).

That's where the most movement is, is why.

92's supercharger kit comes with a nice thermostat housing to subframe tower bolts stabilser . Although it makes no difference to the movement on my engine. As a remote and the standard master cylinder to motor stabilser worked fine. But on a rod change, it may make a difference.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T