my old points distributor seems to have a dwell period of around 80 degrees it should be 60degres there about i changed points and doesnt correct problem also even if i make contact breaker gap larger or smaller it makes no difference to dwell angle i suspect my shaft is bent were it contacts rubbing block maybe some one has an idea should i go electronic for more reliability please help sick mini also has slight hiccup miss at idle wondering if related possibly.

HibullamyrecollectionisthatapulsardizzyisbestuseaDR83ifyouhavean1100orsmallerDR85if1275orbiggeramodificationtothe internalsisrecommendedtoincreaselubricationtheyoriginallycamedifferentonthemanualandauto

My experience now after stripping dozens is all the Pulsars were grease lubricated when in the Nissan motor- and if buying one there is buggerall difference in advance between a D4R83 and a D4R85. Either works OK. Both need the advance stops modified to restrict advance to 10* in the dizzy.
See the 2 sticky threads in the Mods forum.

Alternative is stick a Pertronix ignitor in your Lucas dizzy, they do work well.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've found, a Pulsar Dizzy will do a natural aspirated car fine, infact really well, as long as it is set to a max or elss than 10 degrees before top dead centre below 1000rpm.

Although I have found they aren't quite so good with boost (superchargers or turbos) due to the more energy required for the spark to arc across the plug gap, a smaller plug gap and higher voltage coil seem to cure this.

In conclusion the Pulsar dizzy (I use the D4R85) is good cheap upgrade to any mini. Give you a good quality dizzy (not so old so better chance of not being warn out) better spark time, better everything. Of course you can spend ~$170 and get a petronix to then find out you need to re-condition your old dizzy, or spend ~$50 and get a good Pulsar dizzy.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

If you use a Pulsar dizzy, grab the Pulsar coil too, or go buy a Bosch GT40-R. The Pulsar dizzy runs a 1.5 ohm coil (without ballast resistor), not a 12V 3 ohm (Mini) one. They will work with a 3 ohm coil but output voltage is lower.
With a 1.5 ohm one, I can run up to .040" plug gap with new plugs. In practice I set them to .035". Plug leads are Bosch. My C/R is 10.7:1.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I am using a stock Bocsh coil from the pulsar that it came from.

It seems to work good but I've been told (be a reliable source) that I may need to upgrade to a better coil to keep up with a boosted car running somewhere in the 8:1 compression, about 8.8 I think.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Make sure your plug and coil H/T leads are good. I used to use Top Guns but found they increased resistance after a couple of years.
When they get to 4K ohms, I'd chuck em.
I now use $5 ea Bosch ones from Supercrap, been in 4 years and still good, at around 1.8K ohm.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.