Guys quick question in relation to low'n blown. If she runs boost from idle and is a draw through how have you guys run a vacuum brake booster. I thought of putting it an adapter under the carby spacer plate to take vacuum from there but this is where the NOS inlets go, and fitting a second spacer isnt an option as the carby and filter already sit out of the bonnet too high. Any ideas. I know the turbo cars run vacuum when you are off the gas but this thing is positively pressured all the time. Any other ideas??

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Low, Where are you in QLD. I must see this 204hp mini. Would be some some sort of record. I sware the most power gotten out of A series was 190ish.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

I only have an NA carby setup, but the takeoff for my booster comes off the manifold. All ya need to do is drill and tap a fitting into there for the hose to fit on.

I've got a new setup to fit on the car, which is already drilled and tapped(I woulda got piccies now it's bolted together but I left it at home).

This is what I have at the moment.



Sorry bout the pic quality. The hose goes straight to the manifold after the carby though. And YES, that's a piss poor HS-2 on a 1293. Like I said I have another setup ready to bolt on

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Thanks Phildo, but the NA system doesnt work with a supercharged motor because there is no vacuum in the inlet. To answer your question am in Brisbane, the car is at my fathers house in Mooloolabah north of brisbane as I have no room and he has plenty to store all of my crap. Will gladly post pics when the girl is finished and I promise something special. No expense has been spared. I do all of my own work, so it takes a bit of time but hopefully should turn a few heads. With the 50hp NOS kit fitted and allowing for drivetrain losses should hit around 225hp, and then am pretty sure it is the most powerful A series have come across. Hope it holds together. Will keep you posted.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Thanks guys I think I have it solved, will simply run two additional dummy nos jets and T piece them in, GOLD GOLD GOLD.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Was talking to the guys at KG Engineering in Melbourne some years ago when they were still in business, I used to get layshafts oof them. They had experience with a turboed A series, made in the realm of 250bhp and would break layshafts on the 1st gear end thru the oil drilling hole. They fixed this problem by making a layshaft without the oil drilling that end. Something to think about for your set up if you find it a problem. Steve

Maybe you need a vacuum tank with a one-way valve. Like fitted to some turbo-diesel 4x4's.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

DOH......... Good point, I completely forgot it's gonna be forced induction LOL

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

You could get a vacuum pump off a Volvo and set it up with a tank. Might tend to run out of vacuum if you give it a lot of use though. What a lot of cars do is run a pump off the back of the alternator.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I had thought of running a tank only problem was there isnt any room anywhere. I use a cool fuel ice tank to keep my intake temps down and a water methanol bottle as well so it is pretty crowded in the engine bay. I didnt want to run anything in my wheel arches as I have a thermo fan setup and all the wiring and electrics are boxed for the inner guard on the right hand side, along with the Mallory ignition setup. But yeh was good thinking. I have vacuum at the carby and before the blower so this will do and if I dummy up 2 jet pipes should pull enough vacuum to activate the diaphragm. 250hp on an A series, I stand in awe. As for the box if it doesnt hold together will have to pick up something from the KAD stable, heard their 4spd dog boxes are unbreakable, anyone know what they are like to drive?????. Apparently most of the problems with the layshaft is in hard takeoffs, and the NOS isnt intended for anything but 3rd and 4th gear, so the straight cut I have should hopefully do the job.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

For those of you running PSI motors try the cold fuel tank. Is good for around 20hp on a warm day and is very cheap horses. Is a stainless tank with a screw on stainless top and a drain tap at the bottom. Inside has copper line wound around from bottom to top. Fill the tank with iced water and ice blocks. The fuel runs through the copper lines and presto, lower intake temps.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Yeah vizards book talks about cold tanks. Good for forced induction but it can stuff up the atomisation on NA tuned Weber carbs (fuel doesnt evapourate as easily at low temperatures).

It has certainly been proven that intercoolers work but I think 20hp from cool fuel might be a tad optimistic. I realise you are relating what has been told to you but I would want the proof on a dyno while I was watching. Cold fuel in a hot environment can lead to water condensation problems and this can also be a problem. If you experience a loss of power suspect water in the carby.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

back to topic - low'n, think about what happens when you close the throttle, given that normal setup is to have the throttle butterfly in between the supercharging device and the inlet manifold/ports of the engine. When it is closed you will get a vacuum between the throttle and the engine, but you also get a build up of pressure between supercharger and throttle valve.

if you tap your vacuum hose to the manifold in between the throttle and the engine, and as bnicho says put a one way valve in. Every time you close off the throttle you generate enough vacuum to run the booster next time you hit the brakes. Ideal for a road car where most driving is off throttle a fair amount of the time.

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

But it is a draw through system (1st post). I guess because it is a carby not injected. IIRC turbo diesels have vacuum pumps hanging off the back of alternators. Certainly Land Rover did it this way when they used turbo Isuzu motors. You could put a Volvo vacuum pump and a tank in the boot as the pump is 12 volt. Run the vac line to the servo from there. The vac line isn't cheap though, having said that minis are short.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.