How do you tell what gearbox your mini has if its not the standard gearbox.

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Morgs

You simply want to know rod, remote or magic wand type? Or more specific?

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Yeah I would like to know that and if it is 3 or 4 syncro.

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Morgs

If you can change into 1st on the move without crunching its a 4 synchro. If you can't its probably a worn out 4 synchro. Mines a 2 synchro at the moment.

Theres a gearbox number stamped on the front of the casing, it will give you a clue, but the gears inside can get swapped around so its not foolproof.

Tim

The type number on the front is cast on, not stamped in.
Let us know what it is.
4 synchro cases are dimensionally different to 3 synchro ones, the gears are NOT interchangeable between 3 and 4 synchro. So no upgrade, a 3 synchro stays that way.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sounds like my van!

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The number on the gearbox is 22G1832.

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Morgs

Its a rod change witha small idler bearing - beyond that, whats inside depends on if its been rebuilt and ratios and diff's replaced.

Its also a synchromesh on all four forward gears type of box.

It's the most common rodchange found in Oz Minis.
Probably has a 3.44:1 diff ratio unless been changed.
All gears used in this rodchange box are identical the those in a Mini-K remote type box, except reverse. But the Mini-K has a 3.647: diff.

Easy to convert this box to Cooper S ratios, you just need to change the 1st motion shaft and cluster gear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is rodchange the best standard gearbox on minis. Also is it better to buy a second hand mini k gearbox and rebuild it or just rebuild my own gearbox.

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Morgs

Rod vs. Remote is debatable each having their pros and cons but they do the same job, the rod or remote shifter enables you to change gears from inside the car.

I myself like the remotes sturdyness and usefulness as an engine stabiliser, but must say a rebuilt rod feels slick and smooth. (I have both, in two different cars both rebuilt and in very good condition.)

So I'm 50/50, I like both.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I agree the remote is best for engine stability. However, if you can get the latest box with the larger diam mainshaft and 3 step/3 bearing layshaft/cluster gear that is the best one from a durability point of view IMO.
Best also to change your oil every 3000 clicks max.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Basically no one is better between Rod and Remote.

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Morgs

No. But if you have a rodchange, you need more engine steadies on it. It is far less well located.
Re AEG163's comment the large mainshaft can be fitted to your rodchange box, or 4 synchro remote box. I have one in my Mk2 Cooper S box. The 1st motion shaft to use then with the 22G1040 S cluster gear if you want S ratios is the UK 1275GT one, p/no DAM3167.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.