Quite often I'm seeing the same question being asked about various things so I thought I might try out an idea.

I couldn't be bothered writing a complete 'How to' on brakes and my knowledge only goes so far and I'm bound to miss something. So I'm looking for some factual input from everybody to compile our knowledge to make the 'How to' more effective and less work. So, what I need people to do is 'Quote' my original post and write what you think is appropriate for each section:

So what we should end up with is fairly detailed 'How to' on all types of brakes for a quick reference guide. I'm not really looking for a subjective assessment of the braking ability of various components, "just the facts".

So what I'll do is kick it off with the Metro Turbo stuff so people will get an idea of how the thread is supposed to work. If you have something to add or dispute something someone else has added please 'Quote' and edit were you see fit.

'Brakes - All you need to know'

Drums-

Non Spaced

Spaced

Single Leading Shoe Type

Duel/Double Leading Show Type


Disc Brakes

Cooper

Cooper 'S'

Rover

Metro

Metro Turbo (Ventilated Rotor, 4 Pot Calliper)

Rotor Size: 8.4 inch

Rotor Type: Ventilated: This means the "Disc rotor that has a series of fins (or cooling passages) between the two friction surfaces to aid in heat dissipation."

Calliper Type: Cast iron 4 pot. This means that on either side of the brake rotor housed in the calliper there are two piston that act on the brake pad that inturn clamps on the brake rotor. *there are aftermarket 4 pot callipers available for fitment to a 'mini' hub.

Hub type: Whilst this set up is borrowed from another vehicle and appear to fit to the mini with relatively simple modification it needs to be taken into consideration that they aren't a direct fitment. In order to get an alignment that more accurately reflects the standard mini configuration it is necessary to fit adjustable lower control arms and adjustable castor arms. It is also necessary to fit the "Pre-1984" model Metro Ball Joints.

Brake Booster

VH44

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Please also feel free to add 'sections' i have missed. Say for instance differing types of brake master cylinders, proportioning valves, placement of brake lines between models and the thing on the rear subframe. Hand brakes are fairly common between models but could come in handy.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

To that, I'll ad:

The four pot caliper will also fit the mini disc brake hub. Using this option means adjustable lower arms aren't necessary. A note on the mini hub is the caliper mounting bolts are 3/8 UNF, where as on the caliper the holes are a metric size. The correct bolts to use when assembling are from the 'ERA' mini. The bolt is the 3/8 thread, but with a metric shank. They are obtained from the UK. They are hight tensile and plated, however poorly made and the shank may not be concentic to the thread. Buy more than four, just in case.

A modification that may be needed is the remnoval of the castleated wheel locator on the drive flange. Reason is it may not fit inside some wheels designed for the mini.
Apparently, an 8.4 solid disc drive flange can be used with the vented disc with modifications, but it's not recommended.

One necessary modification is the converson from twin circuit metro to single circuit mini brake lines. The metro caliper has two brake lines entering it, the mini only one.
There are a few ways to convert it.
1. Buy a kit made by Goodridge. Note it is not ADR approved, as it is braided.
2. Have a brake place use some brake line to go from one line and Tee it into the other.
3. Block one port, and drill a hole in between the piston bores to connect the sides. DIY not recommended.


The metro brake setup will increase the track on the mini by 12mm per side. (total 24)
Therefore wider flares may be needed.